Jump to content


Silver Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by r0berto

  1. I can't seem to be able to open up the bellhousing for the s15 gearbox. I have removed the rear housing (gear shifter end), but I can't seem to remove the front housing. All bolts appear to be undone, as per the red arrows. The two large circlips on the bearings (behind the input shaft seal housing) have been removed (blue arrow). The retaining pins, bolts and whatever else I could find have been removed. I really don't know what i'm missing. Advice is appreciated.
  2. Opening up s15 gearbox

    i've read through the workshop manual and indeed i need to pull gears and some other stuff from the back of the box. I don't have a puller big enough and i've had no time to get one. bought a new box for the meantime and i'll give it another shot soon. thanks for the advice to all.
  3. Opening up s15 gearbox

    the bellhousing and centre housing do split, but only separate about 8mm. from there it seems to be held together with something internally
  4. only on VCT sr20. and yes, 5 minute job.
  5. Have your photos hosted on imgur or similar so when this this happens it's easy to recover them
  6. This is a how-to on changing engine and gearbox mounts on an s15 sr20det manual. It is a very similar process to all other s chassis models. I used Nismo mounts all round. Your experience may differ. I am not liable for your f**k ups, please be sensible, think first, safety first. If i've forgotten anything, let me know and i'll update the thread. First start by getting the car up on 4 jack stands, higher the better. Rear stands under subframe, front stands under the chassis rails with a block of wood between the two to avoid chassis damage. (Old photo, i know the front stands aren't on the chassis rails but you get the idea). Start with the passenger side (LHS / turbo side). The mount is hidden under all this stuff. Remove the intake pipe, cooler pipe, hoses, and turbo intake snout if necessary. Remove the strut brace if you have one. You can now see the mount. Undo the two nuts on the top of the mount. The mount stud through the engien bracket is a 14mm nut. The other is a 12mm nut that secures a heat shield. Now move over to the drivers side (RHS). Start by removing the intake manifold support bracket. 2 x 14mm bolts on top (on the intake runners) and 1 x 14mm bolt on the bottom near the starter motor. Push the bracket to the side (its still attached with wiring). Undo the top two nuts on the mount. 14mm for the mount stud, and 12mm for the stud holding a bracket to the mount. Get under the car and undo the bottom nut on both LHS and RHS mounts. It is a single 14mm bolt on each. With the mounts now unbolted but still sandwhiched between the engine and the chassis, its time to jack up the engine. Do this by using your trolley jack and a block of wood and carefully jack up the engine until it hits the chassis tunnel. Be careful not to lift the whole car doing this. If you have a stock sump pan, you can jack from here with a braod bit of wood but this is a shit way of doing it. You are better off jacking from the bellhousing where it meets the engine. This is especially important for cast alloy sumps! NOTE: this pic is not accurate obviously, it should be closer to the engine. Although there is now wiggle room you won't be able to pull the mounts out yet, there is not enough room to remove them because of the stud length. Undo the engine subframe nuts, 4 x 17mm (2 on each side). Take them off completely, dont worry the subframe won't drop on your face. My car is relatively low, so the suspension was pulling the subframe upwards against the chassis. Using a big screw driver and/or pry bar, lever the subframe down and jam a fat chisel (or similar) in between the chassis and the subframe. Back up top you should now have room to slip out the old engine mount. Turbo side (LHS) will have a heat shield, slip this onto your new mount. Squeeze the mount into position, take note of the correct orientation and the alignment tab on the bottom. The cold side (drivers side / RHS) is tight. You will need to move the fuel filter and lines, and the support bracket to the side (the bracket you removed earlier). Maneuver the mount out, take it out through the top where the fuel filter usually sits. New one goes back in the same way. With the mounts now in (but not bolted on) raise the subframe and tighten the 4 x 17mm nuts you removed earlier. Lower the engine a little bit, slowly. Align the tabs on the bottom of the mounts, and slowly drop the engine fully. Do the engine mount nuts up only a few threads, leave lots of space (don't tighten all the way). Move down to the gearbox mount / cross member. Jack up the rear of the gearbox to take the load off the cross member. Undo the bolts that attach the gearbox to the mount (14mm), undo the exhaust support bracket from the mount (12mm nuts). Undo the mount from the cross member (12mm nuts). Remove the cross member bolts (4 x 17mm bolts). My exhaust ran right over one of the bolts, FML. In that case, you can probably get away with what I did, undo the front pipe-to-cat flange, push the now loose-ish front pipe out of the way and get a socket on the last crossmember bolt. My awesome DEI carbon fibre look 'titanium' heat wrap got shredded doing this, its a tight fit with the socket Drop the cross member, swap mount, reinstall opposite to the above. When the gearbox / mount / crossmember is all back together tight, reattached your exhaust with sealant or a new gasket (if this was removed). Un-jack the gearbox, this side should all be done. It is now time to tighten the engine mounts fully. 14mm nut on bottom, and 14mm + 12mm nuts on top for both. Move back up top and reinstall all the intake pipes removed earlier, you may want to use sealant on the turbo intake snout to avoid leaks. You're pretty much done. Go around to every area you worked on and check every nut, you dont want any of this stuff coming loose. You have probably left tools in your engine bay too. Take the car off the stands and take it for a drive. With Nismo mounts I did not have an issue with strut brace clearance. The engine did sit higher but only because the old mount was collapsed and sagging. All engine mounts will settle, give it a month or so. I'm hoping NVH will subside in that time, to some extent, because it's worse than I thought it would be. Only noticeable on idle though. Gear changes are much nicer, the car feels a lot more solid, take off from stopped / stationary is much nicer with the Ogura single plate. To conclude, this is a relatively easy job. I don't understand why people complain about it. Very satisfying end results.
  7. I often see people asking how to change gearbox oil, or where the filler plug / drain plug is on the gearbox. Its something that everyone should know, and its a piece of piss job. I was adding some Nulon g70 gearbox additive (which is brilliant stuff!) and decided to take some pics. The process is the same for changing the gearbox oil. This is for an s15 6 speed, but is virtually identical to a 5 speed from a s13 180sx s14. Get the car up on 4 jack stands, try and keep the car as level as possible. You will need: a breaker bar, 24mm socket, a tom thumb oil pump (you don't NEED the pump but its $30 and you'd be a muppet not to get one, it saves so much stuffing around). If draining the oil, you will also need a bucket. If adding gearbox additive only, you'll need that too. This is the drain plug - 24mm socket required. This is the filler plug above the drain plug. Also 24mm socket required. Using the breaker bar and 24mm socket, undo the filler plug. DO THIS FIRST - DO NOT UNDO THE DRAIN PLUG UNTIL YOU KNOW YOU CAN FILL IT BACK UP. If you cant undo it, you can refill through the shifter hole but that's a lot more work. Undo the drain plug. Get the bucket ready first, don't drop the filler plug into the oil. After it is drained fully (or down to a very slow drip) refit the drain plug and torque to spec. What I've learned over the years from doing it by hand, whatever you think is the right amount of torque, its actually too tight. Do not over tighten, it will cause problems for next time. If I was draining the gearbox oil, this is what it would look like. Imagine this is an sr20 gearbox... Get your additive and/or gearbox oil ready. Again, I used Nulon g70 gearbox additive (PTFE / Teflon type product). It made my box feel brand new. To get this into the filler plug I used a length of new vac hose, probably 5mm? Empty the tube (125mm) into the box through the filler plug. Another pic, different angle. I also had to top it up with some gearbox oil. This is where the Tom Thumb oil pump comes in. Hook the pump fitting into the filler hole and pump in 1.8-2 litres of oil (from empty). You will know its at the desired level when it starts leaking out of the box. This is why you need the car level, so you get an accurate reading. Fill to desired level and refit the filler plug. And another pic, different angle. Job done (photo's fixed...)
  8. Quietening Kakimoto Full Mega N1

    70-80% of noise reduction will be at the rear, so adding large middle mufflers won't make a noticeable difference. the cannon is your issue. a large oval muffler at the rear will do much more to reduce noise and drone. Don't be worried about causing restriction as long as its a straight through design you won't even notice a difference. I was worried about adding restriction and subsequently losing power going from a straight pipe to a larger oval muffler (even with twin 1.8" outlets, which i thought would be too small) on my s15. on the dyno i did a run with no exhaust (pulled off the big muffler) to see if this would be an issue, and i only dropped 2kws on a 230-240kw run (i cant remember where i was at with the tune at the time)
  9. Drilling out knuckles

    ^ Drill press for sure, not to mention straighter, cleaner, less enlargement of the hole over 14mm. Last thing you want is for there to be a possibility of movement that may cause the nuts to untighten. If you've munted your drill bit don't toss it, look up how to manually sharpen it. Save yourself some money
  10. Want to buy - Rear coilover top mounts, or blown rear coilovers to suit s14 / s15 / r33 / r34. Needed ASAP. thanks
  11. S14 Coilover help!

    Adjustable camber tops, but your wheels are too big
  12. Is there much room between the gate and the strut tower with that setup?
  13. on the setup posted above; would it make a difference that the gate is 3 times further away from the source than a regular gate setup off an aftermarket manifold? would it affect response time or anything like that?
  14. Are these replica Type X pods?

    they look disgusting.
  15. fuel for tuning car

    Get the car tuned on the 98 octane fuel carried at your local fill up point. If you're cruising interstate you won't be running boost very often, so you won't have any issues with 95 octane.
  16. S13 SR20det head with lines in it?

    It's all the same head, different casting.
  17. S13-S14-S15-R32-R33-Z32 Brake Details

    HFM BMC is bad news. i know several people who have had to replace them within weeks of install. they're pure shit.
  18. afm with apexi power fc? help.

    Street credibility has nothing to do with it, i play around with my tune all the time so a simple dedicated user interface with good features is better/easier to use than my 8kg laptop. Ps no need to be a dick, ive been a member 4 years longer than you, so there's no need to talk down to me or anyone for that matter for suggesting an idea.
  19. afm with apexi power fc? help.

    Yeah that's a maggot of a unit, doesn't do enough and it's ugly AF. So, which one of you genius entrepreneurs is going to design a plug in controller/visual display for nistune?!
  20. afm with apexi power fc? help.

    yes but you can rescale them to suit your load, like there's no real need to have a cell for every single 1psi. Very powerful ECU compared to PowerFC has launch control, has full flex support. I tune with Nistune time to time and they're great and driveability is pretty much stock can you adapt a plug in screen for diagnostics, and some sort of on the fly tuning like you get with PFC hand controller?
  21. bolted pipe in engine on a 180sx ?

    it is a vacuum return line to the intake, purely for emissions. that hose used to connect to your stock boost control, but it appears as though you have a boost tee for increased boost. Go to your local auto parts outlet and buy some vac tube nipples, poly or rubber blanks to block off the port at the source of that hose. the more random screw finished shit you have flailing around in your bay, the higher chance you'll receive a defect or EPA. you NEED that port blocked 100%.
  22. What tab are you talking about, the two pieces of sheet that join on the rail? If so no issues hammering that down and under.
  23. When MCA set up shock length i assume they're aiming for maximum shock travel and best alignment of the arms for roll centre. All of this has nothing to do with your aesthetics like wheel to guard gap, they use the inner / upper rail on the front as the limiting factor for travel. I think it used to say that on their website as well. Like any good suspension company they don't give a toss whether your car sits a bit higher, they're aiming for best handling. If i was in your position, I'd get them all to a height i like visually, check that your toll center is sitting in a good place (inside of arms pointing down means you're too low) make corrections where needed and get a good alignment