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D-train

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About D-train

  • Rank
    Gate - it's like VTEC for turbos.
  • Birthday 12/12/1984

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  • Website URL
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General Info

  • Location
    Australia VIC
  • Gender
    Male
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    S14 Series 1 (ADM)
  1. Tyres! Federal 595rs-r

    Some comments I have on them from another thread...
  2. Street/daily tyre reviews

    I've been plugging the Federal RSRs for a while now. This thread may give a little insight into them, at least. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=519362 There's a few older street tire threads on here, but probably not even relevant any more.
  3. Looks like this relates to a sorry that got coverage in a few international auto news sites... http://www.autoblog.com/2012/07/05/Holden-looted-by-plant-workers-2-5m-in-parts-stolen/
  4. sway bar setting

    You'll have to work it out yourself; different alignments, tyres, coilovers, etc. will influence your oversteer/understeer tendencies. On top of that, different driving styles are better suited to different under/over balances. Go for a drive and work out if the car feels like it has too much oversteer or understeer, then make adjustments based on what bling said. There's no right or wrong.. I've got an S14 with adjustables front and rear, but I have the front set to full hard and the rear set to full soft. Many people on here will probably tell you to do the exact opposite. Oh, and basically if you have them both set to full hard, the balance will be about the same as if they're both full soft. The only difference in theory will be the amount of body roll you will have.
  5. Wink Mirrors!

    Well, what better way to understand your surroundings than to be able to watch them? Blind spots can be exacerbated when you have limited movement (i.e. strapped in tight with a racing harness). Also, things change within a fraction of a second out on the track - and what you expect people to do definitely doesn't always line up with what they actually do (no different to road driving I guess ). Oh, and I'm just going from my experience in sprint days - I can't imagine how much worse it would be in proper wheel-to-wheel racing.
  6. I've been running the RSRs for a while - 235/45r17 front, 255/40r17 rear. I got about a year's worth of road use out of a set (about 18,000km), plus something like 4 or 5 sprint days. Great street tyre - they work well straight off the mark without having to get heat into them, and they're really quite good in the wet too. In terms of grip on the track, I was really happy with them - managed to get just under 1:42 at Winton and a 59.88 at Haunted Hills with minimal mods (13psi, standard turbo & tune). That said, I haven't tried any of the other tyres you've listed. I'm thinking of switching to slicks next time I go out on circuit, but will probably keep running RSRs on the street. Oh yeah - that's on an S14 - full weight, running something like 2.5deg negative camber at the front and 1.5deg at the rear. Majority of kms were just normal commuting, not thrashing through hills etc.
  7. ABS, to keep it or ditch it?

    Probably best to just give it a go and see how intrusive it is. A lot of people track their cars with ABS still active. If you do find it's a pain in the arse, you should just be able to yank the fuse out. I did notice a few issues when racing my S14 which led me to install a switch that allowed me to disable the ABS on the fly. Unfortunately I haven't been back to the track since to test it out... I put up a 'how-to' in my build thread, here's a link to the post. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=408472&view=findpost&p=6268142
  8. I bought another car earlier this year was because it needed its headgasket done and a new turbo thrown on (it had >5mm axial play, just replaced it with another t28), and I still had to be able to get around for work. I decided having a second more practical car would be a good idea, so I don't drive her around so much anymore. Apart from that, the only other bits I've replaced have been exhaust gaskets, water pump, and plugs. Only engine-related mods were/are FMIC, exhaust, boost controller, fuel pump, radiator, fan. Running 13psi for just about the entire time I've had it - never dyno'd, so I can't give a power figure.
  9. Was doing about 450km/week when my '94 S14 was my only car (Sept 2008 to Feb 2012). Car is now on 280,000km. Still drive it to/from work some days. Oh, and was getting around 10 to 11 km/L.
  10. Tire Size and Wheel combo?

    If you're going to be driving on the street a fair bit but also trying for reasonable track times, from my experience the Federal RSR are great. Not overly noisy (until they wear out), good grip when cold, quite reasonable tyre life, and a good amount of overall grip (I managed a smidgeon under 1:42 at Winton with standard turbo and tune on ~6 month old RSRs). That said, I don't have any experience with KU36 or other similar tyres... For reference, I was using 235/40/17 front and 255/40/17 rear (9" +22 at the front, 9.5" +18 at the rear). I found the fronts would outlast the rears by quite a bit when I was using 235s all round, so I decided to stagger the widths; much more consistent wear now. Oh, and much RPF1 love here too...
  11. RB Parts!

    G'day, I'm after a stock SR20 thermostat, and the spark plug well seals (if you sell them without the rocker cover gasket) - plus delivery to 3026 VIC. Cheers.
  12. Just wanted to leave some positive feedback - I busted a heater hose on Thursday this week - gave MOB a call to see if they had what I needed in stock, then jumped online to order the part(s) at about 1pm - parts were delivered (to VIC) before 8:30am Friday. Great customer service and extremely fast delivery - the parts look top-notch too. Cheers guys.
  13. Dwayne's S14 - 278,000km Street/Sprint Zenki

    OK, so the last few weeks for me has gone like this... 30 Oct - Purchase 2nd hand bush-bearing T28 (absolute minimal shaft play). 31 Oct - Check old turbo: hook turbo oil inlet line to a bike tube, hook bike tube up to garden tap. Observe water pouring out of compressor & turbine housings. Hook up coolant inlet in similar fashion, block outlet. Observe no leaks. Conclude that head gasket must be the cause of oil in coolant. Start pulling top of motor apart. 1 Nov - Remove head. Break coolant temp gauge wire in the process. Clean head & block. 2 Nov to 4 Nov - Scab lifts to & from work. 5 Nov - Install new gasket and put head back on. 6 Nov - Finish putting rest of motor together. Try to start car with no success. Swear. Check cam angle sensor timing. Fix cam angle sensor timing. Start car. 7 Nov to 9 Nov - Business as usual. 10 Nov - Head down the Monash towards Dandenong for work. Notice pinging sound from engine. Pull over, open bonnet, observe dissipation of smoke & steam. Swear. Look for coolant in radiator, find none. Swear. Get lift from co-worker to 9am meeting. Return to car with big ol' bucket of water at 11am. Try to fill radiator, watch water fall straight out from under plenum. Swear. Notice 2 inch split in heater hose. Abandon car and return to work. Order radiator & heater hose kit from Ministry of Bass at 1pm. Scab lift home. Collect car with car trailer at 7pm. 11 Nov - Scab lift to work. Receive hose kit before 9am. Scab lift home. Drink beer. Post on NS. Before I abandoned the car yesterday I took the oil cap off to find that it was smoking pretty bad. When I got back to the car after my 9am meeting I disconnected the cam angle sensor and gave it a crank - not seized, and compression still sounded good. It was running fine before I stopped - just pinging it's head off. Tomorrow I'll replace all hoses with my fancy new kit, chuck some fresh oil and water in (to be replaced with coolant after a little while - it's still got some residual sludge in the system), and see if there's been any significant damage to the engine. The bit that kills me is that if my aftermarket gauge was still working, I'd have caught it much earlier. I'm an idiot for not fixing the gauge wiring straight away given the amount and nature of work that had gone into it over the last few weeks.
  14. OK, just blocked up the oil return on the turbo and ran water into the oil inlet... it poured out the turbine and compressor housings, but not the coolant lines. Then blocked the coolant return and ran water into the coolant inlet - no leaks. Looks like it's time to pull that head off.
  15. Oh! I thought the TeeKay tester was just the chemical (which as I understood it wouldn't be helpful if the leak is just between a coolant and oil gallery), I must have misunderstood the product description. If I can't see evidence of the problem being in the turbo by pressurising the oil lines, I'll get one straight away. Gotcha. Out of curiousity, what are the signs of a cracked core?
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