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Xxx_Ruff_Ryda_xxX

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Everything posted by Xxx_Ruff_Ryda_xxX

  1. MCA Gold Coilovers for S15 - 30,xxxx kms

    Selling my beloved S15 MCA Gold series coiloverscheaper than the MCA Red series. The Golds are all custom hand made and designed for all road setups. Springs are King Springs, 400 lbs (7.1 kg) front and 325 lbs (5.8 kg) rear spring rate, linear springs. Only used for 30,xxx kms, daily for a year and then a weekend only car with the odd hill run. Not required yet but these can either be rebuilt at any motorcycle shop or at the MCA workshop in QLD. Car was defected so had to change back to stock and decided to save for an engine build. Has many adjustments for travel, castor (over 9 degrees each side), front camber, front toe, rebound and dampening. They can get very low but depends if you want to look cool or care about roll centre correction for handling. You can call Josh or Murray Coote for support on these from the MCA suspension website: https://mcasuspension.com/ Asking $2500 or near offer. Local pickup welcome from West of Adelaide or southern suburbs area. WILL POST FOR $50 ANYWHERE IN AU. Any questions, just ask. Cheers.
  2. Selling premium genuine unopened Japanese Endless brake pads for Evo, GTR, Chaser, V35, Skyline, 350Z & WRX. Get the pads you won't look back on and last longer. There's a reason they are called Endless! Includes both front and rear for premium Jap pads! Available for various setups such as decent street upgrade over OEM with low dust, no noise and laster longing pad that bites well (SS-M) , street and track purpose that works good even when cold (MXRS) or a weekend track warrior that still drives home well even when cold (CC-Rg). Details below: SS-M | 0 -530 degrees C http://www.endless-sport.global/au/products/pad_1a/3 MXRS | 50-700 degrees C http://www.endlessusa.com/#!__brake-pads/mxrs CC-Rg | 50 - 800 degrees C http://www.endless-sport.global/au/products/pad_1a/117 - CC-Rg NOTE: The less the graph is coloured in yellow, the more aggressive the pad. Google reviews on these and you will know they are the real deal. FREE postage Australia Wide! Any questions just ask. Sold in complete sets only, price list below: Code Series Model Placement RRP You Pay EP400 SSM 350Z V35 350Z V35 Brembo Front $670.00 $560.00 EP408 SSM 350Z V35 350Z V35 Brembo rear EP400 MXRS 350Z V35 350Z V35 Brembo Front $718.00 $600.00 EP408 MXRS 350Z V35 350Z V35 Brembo rear EP400 CCRG 350Z V35 350Z V35 Brembo Front $792.00 $660.00 EP408 CCRG 350Z V35 350Z V35 Brembo rear EP357 SSM Evo V-X, Evo V-X, STi Brembo front $737.00 $560.00 EP291 SSM Evo V-IX, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP357 MXRS Evo V-X, Evo V-X, STi Brembo front $718.00 $600.00 EP291 MXRS Evo V-IX, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP357 CCRG Evo V-X, Evo V-X, STi Brembo front $831.60 $660.00 EP291 CCRG Evo V-IX, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP290 SSM Nissan R33/R34, Nissan R33/R34, 350Z Brembo front $703.50 $540.00 EP291 SSM Nissan V-IX, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP290 MXRS Nissan R33/R34, Nissan R33/R34, 350Z Brembofront $718.00 $560.00 EP291 MXRS Nissan V-IX, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP290 CCRG Nissan R33/R34, Nissan R33/R34 Brembo, 350Z front $792.00 $600.00 EP291 CCRG Nissan V-IX, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP351 SSM Subaru WRX Subaru WRX Front DB1170 $694.00 $560.00 EP231 SSM Subaru WRX Subaru WRX rear DB1220 EP351 MXRS Subaru WRX, Subaru WRX, Nissan R32,S14 Front $755.00 $600.00 EP231 MXRS Subaru WRX Subaru WRX rear DB1220 EP351 CCRG Subaru WRX, Subaru WRX, Nissan R32,S14 Front $792.00 $660.00 EP231 CCRG Subaru WRX Subaru WRX rear DB1220 EP292 SSM Chaser JZX100 Chaser JZX100 Front $737.00 $560.00 EP352 SSM Chaser JZX100 Chaser JZX100 Rear
  3. ***Genuine Endless Brake Pads for Sale! SS-M, MXRS, CC-Rg

    Almost forgot the email in case anyone wants to hit us up via email: contact@ninjaimports.com.au Cheers.
  4. ***Genuine Endless Brake Pads for Sale! SS-M, MXRS, CC-Rg

    Yeah the price list was chumped on here so I've tried to make it easier to read, here: EP400 SSM V35 350Z V35 Brembo Front $560.00 EP408 SSM V35 350Z V35 Brembo rear EP400 MXRS V35 350Z V35 Brembo Front $600.00 EP408 MXRS V35 350Z V35 Brembo rear EP400 CCRG V35 350Z V35 Brembo Front $660.00 EP408 CCRG V35 350Z V35 Brembo rear EP357 SSM V-X, Evo V-X, STi Brembo front $560.00 EP291 SSM V-IX, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP357 MXRS V-X, Evo V-X, STi Brembo front $600.00 EP291 MXRS V-IX, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP357 CCRG V-X, Evo V-X, STi Brembo front $660.00 EP291 CCRG V-IX, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP290 SSM R33/R34, Nissan R33/R34, 350Z Brembo front $540.00 EP291 SSM V-IX, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP290 MXRS R33/R34, Nissan R33/R34, 350Z Brembofront $560.00 EP291 MXRS V-IX, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP290 CCRG R33/R34, Nissan R33/R34 Brembo, 350Z front $600.00 EP291 CCRG V-IX, Evo V-IX, STi, R33/R34 Brembo rear EP351 SSM WRX Subaru WRX Front DB1170 $560.00 EP231 SSM WRX Subaru WRX rear DB1220 EP351 MXRS WRX, Subaru WRX, Nissan R32,S14 Front $600.00 EP231 MXRS WRX Subaru WRX rear DB1220 EP351 CCRG WRX, Subaru WRX, Nissan R32,S14 Front $660.00 EP231 CCRG WRX Subaru WRX rear DB1220 EP292 SSM JZX100 Chaser JZX100 Front $560.00 EP352 SSM JZX100 Chaser JZX100 Rear
  5. Ok, I've been thinking of taking a dive and attempting to break (hopefully not the motor) 300 rwkw+ on a street and occasional track E85 unopened S15 Spec R SR20DET. First of all I understand: Increased risk of blowing the stock head gasket being 17+ years old Piston rings will get hot, hoping E85 will help and street dirven yet spirited style keeps it somewhat cool The S15 6 speed isn't strong, keep in mind I have had the circlip mod done and I will stick with the dual mass flywheel for cushioning with no clutch kicks. Oil will be Lightweight Shockproof. Clutch is an NPC 10" organic handling 320+ rwkw. Hope the stock rocker arms don't shatter The big-ends doesn't soddomise me with it's big-end Yes, I know a forged motor would be a better idea but read on further down Current mods are all the usual bolt-ons and safely reaches 256+ rwkw on E85 currrently on a hot day. What I need to do before attempting the build: Confirm fitment with the low mount 6boost manifold then purchase a GT3071R T25 56t 0.63 A/R turbo Turbosmart external wastegate plumbed before cat Quality Fuel Rail with Bosch 1150cc injectors Turbosmart 1200 FPR (stock FPR won't flow enough) E85 will require larger fuel lines (3/8" I believe),, to be installed. Install Tomei Poncam 256 11.5mm IN / Procam 260 12mm EX Supertech 75lb Valvesprings Aim will be reaching 300+ rwkw @ 18 - 18.5 PSI on E85. Anything else I need to consider or that I've missed, please fill me in. Why? - I love to get more power as always but also to prove reliability for a street driven SR20, obviously if I was on a track I would drop the boost down to say 15 PSI as it would just be a risk in my opinion at such high temps. This will be before going down the VET path, I'm still a couple of years off from that. I still want it to be responsive as I'm currently running the GTX2863R 0.63 A/R turbo with GReddy Easy step 1 cams (256, 10.5mm IN EX), yet full boost is still at 4000 RPM...I think the 3071R will still feel as powerful down low as well but much more fun at mid and top range. Let me know any concerns or factors which I need to consider please, I'm not attempting to become another "Red Dragon" example but I would like to know what I need to do before having to change pistons, rings, etc as E85 can keep the engine temps down and provide more power at the same time. Cheers.
  6. Ultimate Turbo Reference guide for Nissans.

    Need the dyno readout though for that one. I've been against my bro in a 342 rwkw 6L VE when I was running 230 rwkw and were fairly even until...lets say higher speeds. I'd say it's a happy dyno. Not hating the result man and don't think that I am, just being realistic. The GT2860RS esepcially in a 0.64 just won't flow that much air to produce that power. The maximum it will flow is 16 PSI with 36 lbs/min of air. 36 x 9 on E85 will give you an approx rwhp of 324 rwhp, so it's more like 235 rwkw - 240 rwkw (IF LUCKY) before it's surging off the map. The tuner should drop the boost, it's off the chart entirely and heating up everything unneccesarily with the potential of a prematurely blown turbo. Put it this way, I'm at 255.8 rwkw and maxing out the poor little A/R 0.64 on my GTX2863R running E85 now at 16.5 PSI (see above). It's very snappy even with Hankook RS3 Z223 tyres. It steps out in 1st gear in a striaght line with all the strut bracing, underbracing, decent coilovers, links, etc. It is actually difficult to break traction in a straight line in any other gear besides first and squirms nicely in 2nd at max torque. If yours pretty much ticks those boxes then you've somehow overcome Garrett's physics and the dyno is correct . IMO you should be up there with 350rwkw+ V8s / 6Ts though. The 315 / 320 rwkw V8s should struggle to keep up with you.
  7. Contemplating 300+rwkw Unopened SR...

    Yes, when I meant power I was going by NPC's recommendation for the clutch of 320-330 rwkw, the torque should be similar for any car making that much power. Torque is definitely the factor which can breaks things in the engine and drivetrain, it would be good if NPC had a recommendation for the torque rating but for some reason they don't. It must be easier for them to just go by power. I think of torque as a momentum of power (motive force), so the rate at which the power builds is rapid at a particular RPM before it drops off. The faster the momentum, the more twisting force there is...happy snapping!
  8. Contemplating 300+rwkw Unopened SR...

    this man has done research and not regurgitating forum bullshit he has heard from other. 10/10 I was just thinking about this before actually and noticed that 16 PSI on a GTX3071R (53 lbs) would flow more air than a GTX2863R (40 lbs) at higher RPMs, hence make more torque (resulting in more power). My initial thought was pressure is pressure, but the volume of air will defintely vary between turbo compressors and indeed some will flow more air than others. My hypothesis (correct me if I'm wrong) is that it results with a higher volume of air to ignite, more fuel required, more volatile explosion = dead 16-17 year old OEM gasket at whatever boost pressure. I'm pretty set on the VET project, so I'll change the head gasket then . I just need about 320 rwkw for now...gearbox should hopefully last with the cushy 10" NPC orgnaic clutch. If not, Z33 box time.
  9. Contemplating 300+rwkw Unopened SR...

    Haha, same cost if not more than a GTR transplant conversion perhaps. Thanks dude, PJ was charging me $1550 for the complete head with solenoids so I was looking at that for now. If I end up with the motor it will just be excess baggage to carry and scrap. It will get me closer but not enough. Lowering restriction and changing the wastegate will increase boost a little and hold it better but we are talking 15 rwhp or so. Which is the reason why I wanted to see if it was worth changing turbo and cams to reach it. From what I can see if I wanted ot keep some form of decent response then the only cheapest budget option is the GTX2871R on high boost or an EFR 6758, 6258 could get close but not quite enough. Short by 15 rwhp or so and that's still high boost. I'd rather not change head studs without the gasket so I'll pass on it. Even holding 18 psi in a stock gasket can be dangerous so the fact it drops to 16 PSI for me is probably a good thing for reliability. Still considering a stock bottom block with a VET head for now. If I'm messing with the head, I want it to be worth my while and have the ability to rev without worrying about a rocker breaking...and the sound... .
  10. Contemplating 300+rwkw Unopened SR...

    dont be soft ! do it !!!!!! I have been misinformed, the VQ37 and VR38 engines are closer to 250 KG. That's another 100 KG heavier at the front then the SR20. Damn! To keep the car balanced, the SR20VET is still a better option but yes, painfully expensive still when comparing with other alternatives. If I don't the bottom block or box at all I only pay aorund $9k not including labour though. With a Z33 box and built block It's closer to $15k+ but keeping in mind that both options include a new turbo, injectors, Haltech ECU, manifolds, FPR, etc which I will need anyway. In fact what will actually cost me the conversion is just the head $1600, runners for intake $800, exhaust manifold $700 and Haltech ECU $2000. The rest I would need to do with another upgrade anyway. I can sell what I already have for about $4k so that's a decent rebate . But even knowing that, if I had cash to burn I'd definitely plant a VR38DETT in an S15. It would be one hell of a fun project.
  11. Cam selection for over 450rwhp

    No problems mate and all the best with the next build
  12. Contemplating 300+rwkw Unopened SR...

    I've thought about it but the extra weight at the front is what I'm trying to avoid and it will be street driven also. The hookers and cocaine just doesn't work on the bonnet of my car, they leave snail trails generally. Don't know what experiences you've had but my box shifted and sounds smoother than ever with lightweight shockproof. I overfilled it with 2.2L of it and works a treat. If I'm running a GTX I may as well go top mount twin scroll EFR 7163 . I've got a set of Supertech 75lb springs, 15 lbs more than the Tomei Type A (basically stock). Head Studs will require the head to be removed which could work well. I agree with the box, the 3rd and 4th is a problem with the corclip issue between those gears. I hade mine regrooved by Status Engineering. Box seems fine after 2 years of mild abuse but no clutch kicks and no chirping in 3rd or 4th. The organic clutch makes sure of that. I checked the weight of the VQ37VHR (370z motor with VVEL) and it's the same weight as an SR20! Even better if I could source a VR38 R35 motor with a gearbox that is compatible but that's a long way away. A twinscroll top mount looks like a good move with VCT. I was thinking about a quick spool valve but I've heard hit and miss on them. The Supra boys love it though.
  13. Contemplating 300+rwkw Unopened SR...

    Thanks everyone for heir input, I'm still playing with ideas. I think I may still struggle even with a GTX2871R to push 300 rwkw just because of the turbine wheel chokes off after 6000 RPM. Because the compressor is rated for 560 hp, I doubt it would actually flow at that unless you had 264 or 272 cams and an 0.86 A/R on high boost. To see that the GTX2867R only makes 10-15 more rwkw than my 2863 uninspires me. That dual valve guide option looks great, is that on a VCT lash setup also? I'll be running a 0.64 A/R as I want progressive and low down power. If I need to increase boost much over 18 PSI I can drop the idea. The stock gasket will die fast. I don't like the idea of messing with ARP bolts one by one, indeed I may as well change the the headgasket if I was taking that path.. I might just hold out for my next VET project instead. I need to save some cash and see where it takes me...besides being robbed. I love the idea of a VET head but it's a costly project. I'm happy to wait until have $15k spare eventually. It will just be a gradual project until I have all the bits ready to go (hopefully). If I don't do the bottom-end I feel I wouldn't be doing the NEO VVL proper justice but I could still try it. In fact I was tihnking of just keeping the stock bottom-end and fully machining / balancing it with ACL Race bearings. I think the lower stroke and higher bore would net a better result. I'll be tossing up between a repsonsive high powered ported / polished head or just saving for a VET. I like the 2nd idea better...just hearing the Neo VVL kick in makes me f3king fizz through my pants hah. That note after 26 seconds...
  14. Contemplating 300+rwkw Unopened SR...

    Thanks for the input, I know how much you love the 3071 John but the reason for the 3071 is being that on the compressor map it flows better at lower boost levels so I can make more power and minimise heat and stress on the engine. Hopefully this means I won't need a head gasket replacement anytime soon. EDIT: Just looked at the maps again and the GTX2867R map looks identical to the 3071R map, so that's looking quite good so far. My next question is the turbine and how efficient it is versus the 3071? I've read the NS111 turbine doesn't flow and tends to choke beofre max power is reached... If I need to remove the headstuds, I may as well replace the gasket (unless I'm mistaken and the gasket isn't affected?). The cams I like because it's responsive yet stretching for a little bit more power. I think if I was to go larger then porting the head would be the best option to get the most from the cams but I will definitely lose response also which I want to avoid. . The gearbox I think will at least last a year or 2 haha. I like the idea of the 350z box conversion though (assuming you meant 350z, not 370z). Juggernaut on here has 290rwkw on his circlip modded Nismo 6 speed box. As far as I know the only difference between the boxes is the gear ratios and the word "reinforced". They don't even address the circlip issue, he had to organise the circlip mod himself. I've got a Tomei RAS installed from day one of modding the 15. I've already snapped one of the rocker arms a couple of years ago on the dyno so RAS did nothing for me...
  15. Cam selection for over 450rwhp

    Hmm makes sense, a denser steel retainer should tolerate more than a lighter titanium equivalent. I would much prefer just not stroking a motor but rather boring it out and allowing the high flowing head to rev harder and longer with less hassles about a lower redline instead of worrying about titanium valvesprings in that case.
  16. Cam selection for over 450rwhp

    Of course, don't get me wrong I wasn't emphasising the cam profile deliberately to insult you or your setup but merely astounded at how the builder decided that is an ideal combination and identifying the causes of such cams. It has been reliable which is a good point. Normally SR20DET dual springs will offer a higher spring pressure of 90lb+ but back in 2004 I'unaware of the springs were available then. Exactly what lift it will tolerate reliablly at a given RPM is beyond anyone but the dual spring BC 90lb can take BC 264 12mm cams reliably before the cams run out of puff without bind but perhaps we can get better information from those with first hand experience since mine is based on forums.
  17. Cam selection for over 450rwhp

    Well they are dual spring so if one was to bind or break at least you would know and a vavle wouldn't drop but it's still a risk not knowing what they are. Having said that, 12 - 12.5mm is a large lift so if you were to upgrade check out BC or Supertech springs. Dual valve springs for only 9.5mm lift on a high duration cam of 272 ...I don't know who advised your build but you could have kept stock springs on 9.5mm lift. You would have noticed it would have had fairly average power and torque until past 5000 RPM. That would have killed spool times too. I'm still running stock springs on 10.5mm. I would like to update my springs but I'll be changing my setup soon anyway.
  18. Cam selection for over 450rwhp

    Really, is that correct? I've always thought that the OEM ones can break with high pressure springs, especially with 120 lbs... Haven't heard of that happening, but you could be right. The main reason I suggest to avoid them is that folks have had issues before, and the general consensus of the various places queried was that Titanium retainers are really only for low-kilometer race builds. The problem is that the Titanium used isn't as hard as the steel shims, so wear can occur. A sort-of-recent thread on this: http://www.nissansil...owtopic=2444272 Steel is plenty strong too; the use of titanium is only to reduce the weight of the valvetrain. Not sure whether you can buy lightweight steel retainers for the SR20, but that would be a good option if they're available. That's interesting, I would have thought with such spring rates they would be a requirement but if they aren't as strong then it's useless but what's to say bad fitment isn't the issue also. It would vary between manufacturers I'd imagine also.
  19. Brake pedal feel issue

    Ahh you don't have ABS. If you have an ABS BMC then that is your problem, it is designed only for ABS to work most efficiently. If you haven't gone one already then you will need an aftermarket BM44 that doesn't have support ABS, but hopefully the bias is set correctly or you will need to use the proportioanl valve with some testing to get it right.
  20. Brake pedal feel issue

    That sounds like my how my pedal felt when I still had the S15 BM50 installed on the GTR brakes. It would actually be twitchy on initial bite of the brakes, feel soft but still brake ok. Make sure the brakes match exactly the same booster as intended. A hazardous guess that it's not filling ap the entire piston lengh of the brakes and resulting in a spongy feel If you have mixed the front and rear brakes then you would need something that sets the bias proportionally and flows the correct amount of fluid. Honestly, just match the rear as intended if that's the case. The conversion was easy enough. The BM57 stiffened the pedal for me and offered linear braking with a shorter stopping distance. .
  21. Cam selection for over 450rwhp

    Really, is that correct? I've always thought that the OEM ones can break with high pressure springs, especially with 120 lbs...
  22. Cam selection for over 450rwhp

    http://jessestreeter.com/ Always gone through Jesse, top bloke and never any problems at all. Also does Yahoo Auctions in Japan if you need anything from there. If you want to stay within Australia there are some dealers on here also but they are usually more expensive.
  23. Brake pedal feel issue

    I'm running stock turbo with all the heat shields and original cast manifold. Did you mean get a GTR ABS unit? Because it's just the OEM 180sx one that's there left untouched. Ok, yes the 180SX unit should be working with it still unless it needs a fuse or the relay is faulty, my S15 one works. The GTR one wouldn't work with your setup, I have an R33 GTR ABS unit lying around. The mountings and where the lines meet up are entirely different.
  24. Cam selection for over 450rwhp

    I see, yes the lift will factor how it treats the valvetrain. Low duration and high lift cams tend to stress the valvetrain the most but without VCT I wouldn't see why you wouldn't go solids. It's cheap insurance to prevent a broken rocker arm and a potentially damaged cam or worse with the cost of solids, installation unless you DIY and setting the clearances. If you want some form of reasonable response with meaty mid range and good top range at approx 450 rwhp then go the Tomei cams, if you want to slightly sacrifice some bottom and mid for more mid-top then the HKS cams TurbostyleR suggested would work well. Adjustable cam sprockets would give you some good results but it will take at least 2 hours on the dyno more than likely. FYI you won't get much more power with anything after 23.5 PSI on the GT3071R, it runs off the map and surges with choke after that but it can reach 480 hp at the engine is the flow is there so you may still crack 430-440 rwhp on a non-happy dyno. I'd definitely consider a twin scroll setup though if you can.
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