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180 wanabe

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Everything posted by 180 wanabe

  1. Just wondering what the idle vacuum is supposed to be on a SR20DET. My car seems to float between -58 and -62 x 100kpa according to both my profec B and Defi gauge. No idea why some days it's -58 and others is more around -60 sometimes finding its way to -62 Cheers
  2. Hi guys I noticed last night that my left headlight was not working. The previous owner had done a HID conversion which was working fine until last night. I checked the fuse box in the engine bay and noticed that the 15A blue fuse for the left-hand headlight had blown. I replaced the fuse with a new 15A one and went to turn on the headlights and had the same issue with only the right side working. The newly installed 15A fuse had also blown. So I'm just wondering if it's more than likely the case that the HID ballast on the left side is causing the fuse to blow? Any input would be great. Fro what I can tell the HID ballasts seem to be wired directly to the battery
  3. Let's Talk Brake Pads!

    Finally got around to installing the type D pads on the front and the SR on the rear Haven't done a heap of driving apart from bedding them in, and a couple of quick trips to the shops a couple ks down the road. Can report that the cold stopping performance feels no worse than the A1RMs that I had fitted before.
  4. Was looking at changing my diff after doing the RB box conversion as the RB box with the stock S15 3.69 ratios are a bit tall I understand that any R200 diff that has ABS should bolt in just fine. Was going to try and track down a 4.11 ratio ABS diff out of a R33 skyline. A workshop/wrecker is having a clear out this weekend that is close to me and is selling heaps of parts for only $10 gearboxes diffs panels etc. I noticed that there are 2 kinds of R200 a long nose and a short nose. I am pretty sure that I need a short nose but just wanted to see if anyone could confirm ? Cheers
  5. Cheers guys Had a quick look on ebay @ some S15/R33 diffs to get a good idea of what they look like. Easy to tell the R33 ABS one because it has the wiring/plug coming out the front unlike the non ABS ones. Hopefully, I can find a couple of R33 ABS ones when I visit the wrecker/workshop in question on Saturday and pick up a couple of bargains! I personally don't mind the RB box with the 3.69 ratio diff for daily driving, there is something about being able to hold 2nd gear till 115kph.... but I haven't done a track day yet since the RB box swap. I figured if I can pick up a couple of them for $10 each I have got nothing to loose, I will also make sure I get the 5 bolt shafts to go with them
  6. Having recently done a RB box conversion I am looking at doing a flex tune upgrade on my car in the not too distant future. Currently running a nistune with a set of nismo 740cc injectors and a walbro 460 Turbo setup is a precision HP5130 and I am running un1cams +springs Car is currently making 310hp @ the wheels on a "safe" 98 tune I know everyone is going to tell me to throw out the 740s and go top feed etc, however I was wondering if anyone on here has seen how far the Nismo 740s can be pushed on E85 with a bit of help from a fuel pressure regulator ? Not wanting to go top feed I guess the other option is to go some five O 1200cc side feeds which seem to work ok for the SR20 but are rubbish when it comes to RB engines. I'm thinking that Dose pipe might be the man with the most nistune flex experience who is active on the forums so any input would be appreciated
  7. Nistune Flex /injectors

    I would get the car tuned on straight 85 and up the pressure as you suggested to try and milk the 740cc injectors that little bit more. I could not see myself filling up exclusively on E85, more than likely it would be a tank of 98 and then a tank of E85 then back to 98 etc. Running a few numbers through a blend calculator http://www.georgebelton.com/E85Calculator.php People say that the S15 tank is supposed to hold 65L and the fuel light comes on when you have 10L left in the tank. So if I was filling up when the light came on and then putting 50L of E85 in the tank, that would get me around E71 on the 1st fill. The next fill being 50L of 98 would bring the tank contents to E12. Fill up with another 50L of E85 and the contents should be around E73 Basically, the tank contents would alternate between E73 and E12 each fill if I kept alternating between 98/E85. Having a look at the Nistune feature pack documentation on page 12/13 http://nistune.com/docs/Nistune%20Feature%20Pack%20V1.pdf it shows the ethanol scaling tables/fuel trimming and ignition trimming. My understanding is shit will get maxed out when running E85 "fuel/ignition" and then backed off in increments depending on what the flex sensor is detecting in the tank. So if the car has been tuned on straight E85 and a couple of tanks later is running E73 it should lean out the mixture a tad, buying a bit more injector duty cycle headroom/insurance. My understanding of why you don't want to be maxing injectors is 1, @100% they are just open pouring in fuel and not properly spraying. 2. Having spare duty cycle means they can throw in extra fuel incase of a boost spike and save the engine from running lean/damage 3. Heat ? Came across this site https://www.plmsdevelopments.com/customers/paul_180sx.shtml kind of a build blog on a guys 180sx. Ended up getting 274rwkw with 740cc injectors @ 90% duty cycle. There is no mention of what pump was in the car or if a FPR was used.
  8. Nistune Flex /injectors

    I think that the saving grace for my 740cc injectors will be that the car will probably never be running on straight E85. Given I want it set up as flex fuel and I will be running 98 most of the time, even if I was to fill up 40l with straight E85 with say 10l of 98 in the tank as I never run the tank dry I would end up with around E70. Any idea on how much extra headroom E70 gives over 85?
  9. Nistune Flex /injectors

    Were you runnig stock FPR ?
  10. From my own experience with SRs is that even with lowish compression they still keep going. Before I had the engine in my old 180 years ago rebuilt it ran pretty well with lowish compression, was a bit laggy to get on boost but still drove ok until it blew the oil dipstick out and sprayed oil all over the turbo manifold when giving it a boot which scared the shit out of me. I would say get the tune checked and keep driving it till the blow by gets so bad that you have a dipstick incident like I did. Then you know its definitely time for a rebuild.
  11. Nistune Flex /injectors

    Any thoughts on the five O 1200cc in a SR20? I did a search and found one of your posts saying they were rubbish in a RB but fine in a SR. Planning on going flex tune so they will be running on 98 at least 50% of the time as the closest united is about 15k away from me. I also value reasonable idle quality, cruise is something I would also want to be decent as I do a trip to Brisbane and back from the Gold Coast one a week to see the GF. Sounding like the 740cc will have to replaced if I want the above 2 things.
  12. It's not perfect but if it's not burning oil or blowing your dip stick out just keep driving it until it lets go. Might be an idea to get the tune checked however and if your running stock injectors maybe get them cleaned/flow tested/upgraded as the low comp position could be running lean compared to the others.
  13. Let's Talk Brake Pads!

    Looks like I'll put an order through for a set of D for the front and Sr for the rear I know you were talking of doing a deal some time soon but I need pads now as the wear indicator is doing its job and annoying the shit out of me with the lovely sound it's making.
  14. Let's Talk Brake Pads!

    I'm quite interested in these Intima D pads. Have been using QFM A1RMs the last couple of sets. Also used Ferodo DS2500 in the past but they are pretty pricey these days. My current pads have just hit the wear indicator so its time for a new set of pads. I find that the Q1RMs get hammered and fade at QR so I would like something better! I am a little put off by the Intima D being not recommended for street although from what I have read on the internet so far, a few people are running them on the street without any issues?
  15. Good condition bucket seats, no rips tears or cig burns. Come on S chassis rails. Seats have ADR tags so you don't have to worry about the defect squad. Regretful sale, sunroof owners need not apply unless you are short.
  16. S13 Circuit Alignment/Tyre question

    I have always run square sizes like Neil, mainly for rotation purposes as R compound semis aren't exactly cheap! Tyres on my car in those pics were super old Nitto NT01s 225 45 17 that had pretty much no tread left on them, still managed to pull a 58.25 on the sprint track. Would rather run a wider tyre but I picked up the set of rims/tyres 3 time attack sessions ago for $200 so no complaints! What times were u running on the RSRs??
  17. S13 Circuit Alignment/Tyre question

    When was the last time you had alignment? That will defiantly tell you whats going in with your rear toe in Also doing time attack @ QR will cause the passenger side to wear out quicker than the drivers side. After all most of the turns you make are right hand turns which puts more load on the passenger side. Couple of pics of my car from the last time attack I did @ QR, you can see what am talking about with the weight transfer/load going onto the left side of the car
  18. Came across this article which was a very good read. Explains how all these settings work in an easy to understand way. http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html
  19. S14 reo bar to S15

    With a grinder and enough duct tape anything can be made to fit
  20. I was thinking of getting some new suspension arms for my car I have started to do time attack again @ QR and have managed a 58.25 on the sprint track, with my only suspension mods being coilovers My car is a daily, although I don't drive it all that often as I live a 10 min push bike ride away from work I have heard that S15s have some sort of factory defect in the rear subframe which causes misalignment and would like to correct it. I would also like to have greater control of how much camber I can run on the car. From what I have read, spherical bearing which I believe some people call rose joints have less play than rubber ones. This means that under load there is less/no play compared to rubber units, which means that the alignment that was dialed into the car will be very much the same when under stress ie cornering etc. The negatives of spherical bearings are noise/harshness and a shorter lifespan. I'm also not 100% sure if they are legal in QLD. I guess it all depends on who pulls you over, but for the most part I am trying to keep my car as legal as possible. Now the hardened rubber option is going to have more play under load/stress because they are made of rubber. However compared to the stock units on my car that have been there since 2001 they are going to be a shitload stiffer. I would also prefer less noise, I just had alloy sub frame collars fitted and am only just tolerating the extra feedback/noises that have come about after they were installed. I came across these kits from hardrace which seem reasonably priced and for the most part seem a lot more reputable than your typical china racing ebay crap. http://www.hard-race...&product_id=862 - Rubber http://www.hard-race...&product_id=861 - Spherical Any thoughts, ideas, opinions on one style vs the other?
  21. Tramlining on the road with 265/35/18 semis

    265 up the front it a very wide tyre! I found with my V35 skyline that had 245s up front that the steering wheel would want to move on its own on older more busy roads as the tyres were more sensitive to flaws in the road. Best example I can give you is if you think of a road surface and then throw 10+ years of trucks and heavy vehicles driving on it your going to get lower sections on the road from all the weight pushing down which kind of creates channels that your wheels will want to follow, which causes your steering wheel to move.
  22. I'm sure that compared to old stock items either set would result in the car being faster and safer. Could you please elaborate what you are meaning when you say safer? I would have thought that the hardened rubber items would have been safer with a longer service life BTW Wing my cars loving the un1cams and springs
  23. Hardrace do 3 years warranty on the rubber vs 12 months on the spherical if thats anything to go by then it would seem that the rubber ones would be the way to go
  24. Hi guys Noticed at time attack yesterday that my car was leaking coolant, jacked her up and had a look underneath and could see coolant leaking from a bolt/line on the turbo Anyone else had this happen and how much of a pain in the ass is it going to be to fix ? Also took a video and posted it on youtube showing the drip
  25. SR20 turbo coolant line leak ?

    Thanks for the input guys, I'm thinking that a set of braided lines are going to be the way to go.