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Found 28 results

  1. Trying to diagnose whats wrong with my engine, here is a vid showing the intake noise, clicking near the manifold, and the rough sound coming out the exhaust. Also a large loss of power esp at low end http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_t6FU333nI&feature=youtu.be Stock SR20DE autech 2000 model 130k km's Any help is appreciated Thanks
  2. Hi guys, not sure if anyone has experienced this or its all in my head. I have a s15 autech, recently just bought a catback stainless steel hurricane exhaust.. liked it for a while but it's now become very annoying. The exhaust sounds very deep at 2500-3500(drones like hell in the car) then when it gradually builds up it sounds so high pitched (very annoying) is the resonator the problem? If you guys could give me your input, would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  3. Hey Silvia Gurus, need some help. The Environmental Protection Agency here in NSW Australia have seen it fit to hand me a Emissions Defect notice because my 1990 RB20DET powered 180sx's engine light or Catalitic Converter warning lamps do not light up. Thing is, I need evidence that 1990 180sx's Do not have a check engine light in the first place, and that the cat light should only light up when the cat overheats. Otherwise, they're going to make me take my pride and joy off the road for good. Also, need to show how the EGR system on the RB20det (from an R32) works if it has one, I'm under the impression that it doesn't. Need this info within 2weeks otherwise it's goodbye to my 80. So... Help a brother out! Many thanks..
  4. I put a GKtech front and dump pipe combo on but I am going to put some coilovers in and it will be too low, it scrapes at the moment and my car is not low at all. My question is would i be better off buying a new front pipe or take it to an exhaust shop and see if they can cut and weld it to make it shorter and tuck it up? Im not sure if the cost of paying someone to do something like that would come out cheaper than buying a new front pipe and installing it myself. But then another question is if I do buy a new front pipe would it line up with the existing system or would I have to pay someone to fix that up too?
  5. hey *milkshakes* this is first thread. i have a suziki cuntf**k with a sr20 in it. i have adjustable cam gears which are a 260 degree intake 270 exaust with a 12mm lift on intake and 12.5 on exaust. i recently bought adjustable cam gears and i have them both set at 0, the car is getting tuned next week and i need to know what to set them at. which do i advance and which do i retard. i have a gt3076r garrett turbo and will be running e85. if need any other details about it just ask. cheers *milkshakes*.
  6. Hey guys, I'm a noob when it comes to Turbos etc, as I haven't had much experiance. But a little bit back I bought a GT2871R (52T), and was wanting to install it into my 180sx. When I bought the car I was told it had a T28 In it (S15 Turbo?). Anyway, today was the the I decided to do the swap over. After about 2 hours I pulled out the turbo and behold, it looks exactly the same as the new one that I had aside. Here's the photo of them next to eachother. The wastegate actuator doesn't fit properly on the New one, I have to 'stretch' it a little. So i'm not sure whats going on :| Any info guys? Do they look the same? As far as I can tell i've taken out the turbo for no damn reason. Cheers, -Alex
  7. hey guys.. i had my car in limp mode for almost 6 months. Tried everything to get rid of it such as changing 3 AFMs, ecu etc.. But few days ago i happend to drive over a big water puddle and all of a sudden check engine light went off and car wasnt in the limp mode anymore for few days. Then i sat the car in the driveway for a week and started it on last friday and the check engine light was on again and car was in limp mode too. So i deliberatley drove the car over another water puddle and the check engine light went off. can somebody tell me if there are any sensors under the sr20det motor? or something that could cause this issue?? SR20DET gurus pleas shed some light on this issue.. thanks in advance Car details 180sx type x 1997 sr20det
  8. Hey Guys, Ive done a search and cannot find the help i need so im hoping you guys are kind enough to give me the information i need. Ive recently purchased a bunch of parts off a mate with an S15 which I want to eventually put on my S15, my question is: are the 810cc injectors i purchased too big for the set up i want( my setup will be: 3 inch turbo back, front mount, electronic boost controller, nistune, z32 afm, fuel pump, stock t28 bush bearing turbo). i was talking to another mate of mine who told me the injectors are too big, hence why im asking about this. my setup will be: 3 inch turbo back, front mount, electronic boost controller, nistune, z32 afm, 300l/h fuel pump. thanks in advance
  9. Hi, i have a 1999 Nissan Silvia S15, its so far a stock veichle, it just recently got a 3" cat back exhaust stainless steel. Brand is Fujitsubo car is running stock settings 0.7 bar. i need the car to get tuned, Can stock ECU's be tuned? as its pinging at boost and higher revs Im from sydney south west, looking for a good shop to get my S15 Dyno tuned... thanks
  10. Hey guys, I am strongly looking into getting a set of quad throttles for my S13 (SR20DE Redtop). I think I have all the logistics worked out for the installation, but what I need to know is what to do about the lack of an AFM. I will be running sock filters, rather than going for a custom throttle body. I know that the Tomei Reytec allows you run without an AFM, but getting the software/finding a tuner seems to be almost impossible. It is also my understanding that these ECUs loose their tune if the battery is disconnected, which is retarded. So, what other options do I have? Nistune? Power FC? E-Manage? F-Con? More importantly, what are you other guys (all 3 or so of you ) running as an ECU? Or, is there a way to fake the AFM signal from the TPS or something similar? As I would love to just use my standard ECU in the short term if at all possible. Thanks guys, Lachlan
  11. i have a top feed fuel rail with a spacer to fit some new injectors to my silvia. i have the injector harness out of the car and its confusing me. i have worked out that there is continuity between the thick red wire that goes to each plug, and im assuming that its the earth and that the smaller wires with the black trace must be the positive wires that energise the injector and make it work. what i cant work out is which is which on my new injectors. they are 2000cc bosch/injector dynamics ones. http://www.billet.net.au/billet_performance_products_025.htm what i would like to find out is A: am i correct in my postive/negative assumtions? B: which way do my injectors wire up?
  12. Hi, I blew a gasket on the old t25 so decided to do the t28 ADM DIY swap. The problem is it will not go over 7psi. I have 180 with a blacktop with a t28, braided turbo lines, manual boost controller,255lpf fuel pump, fmic, aftermarket alloy radiator. I am planning on getting a z32 afm, 550cc injectors and nistune before i get it tuned but before i pay someone to do that i want to solve this problem. I thought I might have put the boost controller on backwards so I turned it around and boost would skyrocket, well to 12psi and I backed off before it went too far. I turned it right down and it will still skyrocket. I turned the boost controller to the original way and it would not go over 7psi. I then turned it right up about 10 clicks and still staying at 7psi.
  13. Question is can i use a fan shroud from a s14 on a s13 obviously... struggling to locate one in sydney so if your in sydney and have one laying about lemme know plz
  14. Nah not enough surface area. radiators should be tall and wide but only really need to be about 20mm thick. Have you though about using the air con condensor? That's what I'm going to use as a W2A radiator. It's vehicle specific so PERFECT factory bolt-in fit.
  15. Heya I bought this 180sx 3 weeks ago. I saw the car running and I drove it before I took delivery, everything was good, car held boost and was pretty responsive and smooth. As a part of the sale the previous owner took out his turbo and manifold. So last week I put in a new manifold, turbo and braided lines. I finished piping up the intake and intercooler yesterday. The car is running really rough. The car has a slightly weak idle and occassionally stalls when in drive (its auto for now). When I apply throttle nothing really happens, it doesnt gain revs but seems to hesitate badly. When I pump the throttle it gains revs and holds the revs only if I keep pumping the throttle. from what I can gather there is no boost, I dont have a boost guage yet but will later this week. The turbo I bought (t28) had an internal wastegate set to 14psi so I adjusted the actuater before I put the turbo in and planned to raise pressure with a boost controller. I added about 40mm to the actuater arm, was this too much? or could there be other reasons it wont boost? I have the boost controller now, it has 3 nipples with the adjuster knob and im not too sure how to install it. Another thing is that the lights, wipers, windows, dash, pretty much anything electrical doesnt work unless the car is running. For this reason the fuel pump is hard wired. So far all the work I have done is new turbo, manifold, turbo lines. I checked for error codes but all it threw was 55 (no problems). The MAF is connected and working (was taken from running s13), o2 sensor is wired, all vac lines seem ok, all intake hoses are secure and clamped. I'm kinda at a loss here. this is my 1st turbo car as I've normally had na v6's. I just dont see what could have changed in those 3 weeks. I've searched this and other forums for a while but nothing has really helped so far. Any help would be appreciated. (below is a pic of my engine bay, I highlighted in green my vac line that goes to the actuater, is this right? It comes from behind the intake plenum. Does everything else look right?)
  16. Been dobbed in for an EPA check for my 13's exhaust noise. Car's got a completely stock SR20DE, the only 'power' mod is the catback on it. Now, being the geniuses us P platers are, I bought the car with a few things done to it, mainly exhaust, wheels and coils. Anyway, the previous owner, or one before him had put on a 3" catback. It's a Supersomethingarather Australia branded one. Of course I've discovered that a 3" is too big for the car blablabla, but anyway. I was done for it being too loud not long ago, but it was when it was running like poo. It needed a service badly, and the fuel pump was on the frits. So got it looked at, I replaced the pump, it's running better than when I bought it, but then 2 weeks later I get the wonderful news that one of the men in blue was displeased with the level of noise it was producing, as I was having to pretty much wring it's neck to get off the line. There's a cop station literally around the corner from my place and it's on a slight hill. It's quieter now that it's running better, but I'm not sure if it'll still pass. So, anyone with a similar set up ever have it deemed legal? Been looking for a stock one, figured I might as well whack that on and get a 2.25" like the 3" should've been, originally, but there's not too many around. Any help appreciated.
  17. So I am deciding to sell off my s15 because well, I need to buy a house & have a master plan. I am basically steering toward building a full blown track/drag car. Simply for having a lot of fun! I purchased a S2 s14 shell for $4400 and man it came with some goodies so makes the journey a lil more exciting. I have stolen everything from the s15 & am converting to s124 shell. Although the s15 has a great replacement motor only not forged, still with nistune & 2871r etc etc. will still make 250 all day with a tune. The engine is a freshly run in SR21det (over bored to 87mm) NEW EVERYTHING!!!! new high flow water pump. Underdrive pulley kit (Greddy) 272 BC cams & RAS kit. I will limit revs according to when the torque drops off so maybe 8000rpm depending. BC single heavy duty valve springs to suit 5 speed s14 box with cusion button clutch & super lightweight flywheel. 3" gullet dump & full exhaust twin 3" & tuned extractors (t2 ceramic coated) with de cat. 850cc (or larger) injectors & Tomei rising rate fuel reg. HKS gt2835 (52t .86 ceramic coated rear) 84 trim. kendo stainless braids, Ram feed induction....& z32 & 60mm T/B Not to mentionre- blue printed forged CP pistons & manley rods!! decked head & flow tested. now my last setup made 260kw on my 2871 (.63 with greddy easy cams & nistune) did 11's down the quarter mile with stock s15 r200 manual lsd. this s14 has 4.11's in the diff & to be honest I have never been so excited to see how it goes with the overall torque & power figures!!!! Also see it ripp down Calder Park strip. Im hoping to crack 290rwkw & so far the builder says that it is very do able with this setup. Concidering I have been building this engine for 4 years until things got serious, im hoping its all ready for EASGTERNATS so again really pumped up. Feel free to chuck in some opinions if anyone is interested. Im iffy on ECU.... And havent purchased full driftworks rear end assembly just yet. suggestions. Still questioning how hard i can rev this & power it may reach. sr21...!!? Still havent decided on intercooler. cheers.
  18. Hey all, I have a 2000 Autech S15, done about 127,000 km's. I fill her up with Vortex Premium or BP ultimate all the time. Seem to only be getting 340-360km's per tank ?? I know Autechs arent that great on fuel but thought it should be a bit better than this. Havent been thrashing it or anything and engine is completely stock. Should I start by cleaning air flow sensor maybe replace oxygen sensor? Also looking at putting a 2.5 high flow cat-back on it and taking it for a dyno tune. Anyone recommend any mechanics (in sydney metro, not west) that have experience with SR20de? thanks Matt
  19. Hi, gotta take the manifold and t25 turbo off so may as well upgrade i got everything for cheap but need some advice I have now got a t28bb, dump pipe and front pipe. Now I am planning on ordering: a new exhaust manifold gasket turbo to manifold gasket braided turbo lines The turbo came as is in the pics and I am not sure if I might need anything else. I read somewhere something about an oil restrictor when going from a t25 to a t28. If you have any tips on the install dont hesitate but I am mainly looking for help on what I might be missing and I dont wanna start and find out I have to order something else and wait on it. Cheers
  20. I own a 1994 180 and have a weird sound when comin under boost and im 90% sure its from where the turbo and exhaust meet, you can feel it when you put your hand there and when i start it cold and block the exhaust you can feel it more.. Instead of just fixing the problem my brother is giving me a t28bb of his s15 which has around 90ks but it came off a bit before that and I have also bought a gktech dump and front pipe to do at the same time. My questions are: - Are there any signs I should look for, for damage to the t28 turbo? - What hidden obstacles will I find along the way? - How hard are the bolts to get to? - I have a bit of experience with cars but I'm no mechanic am I better off paying someone to do it? Any information would be great Cheers
  21. i took a video and posted it on youtube of how my s13 starts up. anyone got any ideas why it starts like this ??? cheers.
  22. hey all i just completed an rb20 conversion into an s13 because i got the engine and gearbox and everything else nice and cheap, it runs and drives and all but but but.... still having problems with starting the car, takes a few shots, then you have to prod the throttle but once its going its fine. and it smokes kind of grey white not really sure why.... and when i have the idle control valve connected it idles at 3000rpm but when i unplug it the idle goes back down to what sounds to be a normal pace around 1000ish rpm. any help would be mad. ive got all the pcv valves set up like they are meant to be, recently changed cpark plugs, has new oil penrite 10w50 semi synthetic.
  23. Hi all, A query for those whe have had experience tuning: With step 1 GReddy Easy cams (256 10.5mm IN / 264 10.5 EX) and a VCT S15 motor, would it be worth getting a Tomei or GReddy / GREX exhaust cam sprocket if I wanted to tune it for better response / mid-range? I've also read that the VCT unit can be welded onto an aftermarket intake sprocket but that sounds unreliable and risky... Cheers.
  24. Hi, I'm planning to install an entire turbo-back system soon due to my current 3" exhaust sounding like droney diahorrea. I want to install my new exhaust but it also requires me to be rid of my 3" dump pipe to use the stock 3" to 2.5" dump pipe. While this is beneficial for bottom-end, it's been tuned with the 3" dump pipe. What I need to know is will the stock dump throw my tune out enough to have to get it tweaked on the dyno again? Since I'm changing my turbo in a couple of months, I'd rather wait if it does affect the tune but I would prefer not wait if no tweaking is required. Cheers.
  25. Hey guys need a little help, So here's my story, My car (1992 Sr20de S13 Stock Pretty much) has been over-fuelling for a while and now that my cars been yellow stickered and un-registered i thought i would fix the problem, I started off by removing spark plugs one at a time and cleaning them with a wire brush as they were fouled out. So after cleaning them i re-inserted them all and there plugs turned car on and started straight away but under acceleration it had a miss so i removed the 1st spark plug lead and car died after 3 seconds approx. Now the car will not start again it keeps turning over but wont actually start. So there's my problem so far i have tried changing the ECU, Leads, Ignition coil, fuel rail and checked all fuses and none are broken aswell as taking of dizzy cap and using fine sandpaper to take off any corrosion. I used a sparkplug tester to check for spark and no spark can be seen in-between the gap of |_|. So my question is has anyone had or heard of this problem and have any ideas on how to fix it, My friends going to come scan it in a couple of days and another friend has said try changing my CAS. Thanks in advance for help Here is two videos of how bad it was over-fueling: http://youtu.be/eREmpatihxY And if i held the revs: http://youtu.be/fynNnU6d_CE
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