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Found 12 results


    Hey guys , I've been on here for ages but haven't really bothered about a build thread until now. My car Is an RB20 S13 (yes another one) RB25 turbo TOG low mount manifold TOG Stainless steel gasket Microtech LT8 Twin Thermos Adjustable cam gears genuine plazmaman plenum Greddy FMIC R32 GTR seats HKB boss kit Quick Release Hub R32 brakes all round R32 cross member and power steering rack R32 Fuel Tank Walbro FP Cusco coil overs LSD Diff KKR Camber arms KKR Toe Arms Extended LCA's Nolathane swaybar bushes front and rear Full mild exhaust tucked up, painted black Blah Blah Etc Heres some pics Also just been painted , fresh as pie
  2. 180sx // RB20

    https://i.imgur.com/NYJwdk8.jpgGO TO LAST PAGE --> Current status - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Hey guys, so not too much about me but I've just turned 19, had my R32 Skyline gts-4 rb20det stolen two days after i moved in to a new house.. Still with family, need money for this!) What I always say is there's not much point in using the words 'could' 'should' 'would' or thinking about negatives so I decided to just move on as quickly as I can. I searched for weeks online scouring the QLD for registerable 180sx shells whilst keeping a keen eye for my r32 parts :\ I was selling a van, my brother got it for very cheap and gave it to me to sell out of compassion, will never forget that. In the ad i would take a 180sx shell with cash adjustment, this guy had no cash but offered me the shell, which was lucky he kept it off-market while I got the van sold (4ish weeks) Price of shell $1000 ono (UPDATE 15/4/20: The price was negotiated down to $600, and to date I've easily sold 400-500 of stuff, got another 200 to sell along with parts I will be keeping to use like the one piece drive shaft, r200, half shafts, etc) Sold van $3,500, Bought my brothers Honda Civic EK1 - $2000 Registered (perfect for a daily, fuel, weight, fwd safety in rain, etc) Oh and the best part is he left his stereo in there as he has loads of gear, it's only a 300w amp with 2x 10inch subs but it vibrates the glass, your bones and hair on your body at 90% volume Also if my context of time is a bit confusing in this first post it's because I just started this thread after it all happened about 1 month ago, so I will post "progress" in one or two posts after this then time will be live So I finally dragged my brother and my dad along on the two hour drive, and seen the silhouette of the 180 in the driveway as we arrived, I could feel them internally cringing, smashed windscreen, no driver door or quarter glass, grim reaper bonnet hahaha, and etc. Pretty much looked like this bonnet First thing I did was gurney it off, something retarded happened and I musta slipped my right hand being wet or something and the gun pointed at my left hand tearing off 1/2" squared of skin, stung for whole night and day after baha, next best to the old knuckle bash. Here she is at the yard (Location god damn disclosed, no info for potential thiefs -.-) with all that stripped interior taken out and organised. Was as absolute bitch to get on and especially off the trailer as it was 'rolling' without coilovers, uprights wired to the strut tops and sitting on stockies. Like sitting, the wheel arches onto the tyres haha, very hard to roll even with the low weight Came with some goodies, 2L surge tank I am painting at the very moment so pics in next post, with 044 External Bosch, and apparently a 040 in the tank which I will found out soonish. Came with sard FPR, some good looking stereo gear, Bunch of thick gauge wire inc. power, few rca cables, extra relays for thermo and pump etc, all stock relay boxes/fuses and some kind of loom. This weird Boost controller thing? Seems to be a solenoid but no wires? Couldn't be a tee as no adjustment? If anyone knows lemme know Pignose/CA Front bar with lip (Genuine and came on car) The only front bumper I lovee! Here's all the interior, selling the green keeping red UPDATE: Sold most of it, got boot trims on reserve for a guy to trade for sunroof and RH door which I need My first steps are the get the car stripped so I can prep the shell, have got the crossmember off and jesus it's heavy to shift on your own. Guess the car's weight has to come from somewhere. 1 foot of progress ~ 3 mins 3 metres of progress ~ 25 mins and pooped out Finally in haha, you can probably see in the last photo I was going for the shipping container (my uncles but he lets me use back section) where my parts are but gave up and put into the demountable until I can get a hand or strip it down.
  3. Hey everyone. I need help, tips and pointers from people who have done this before or know information on it. So I don't want people saying "go rb20 it's easy" or asking how much power I want. I'm just getting it together and running standard not going massive power now. I have a r32 skyline rolling shell and putting a series 2 rb25det into it. I have gearbox n the custom mounts to fit the 32, the motor and other bits and pieces. 1st, question would be, is a rb20det radiator the same as a rb25det? If not will a rb25det radiator fit in the standard brackets in the r32? 2nd, the loom and ecu I still need to buy but want to know will it all plug and go or do I need to customize the loom to fit the r32 and if so is it a small easy job or do I need it professionally done? Does someone have a step by step instructions for it? 3rd, when I got the car it came with the exhaust from the cat back but no cat, the bolt pattern is 3 bolts and seems to be 4", now I have looked up r32 and r33 cars and they are 2 bolt does anyone have a idea what the 3 bolt goes to? 4th, can someone tag the how to thread for installing a forward facing plenum on a rb25, I have been searching and can't find it. Thanks everyone in advance, I'm sure I'll have more and more questions but a lot of help would be great thanks Mark
  4. Hey guys, I want to get a S15 rolling shell to build into a competitive drift car, just wondering, how much do S15 rolling shells usually cost? Thanks Myles.
  5. Soon to be S13 owner!

    Hey Guys, the names Myles, im 18 and im new to the forums. I currently have a MX83 Cressida and a RB20DET, but thinking of selling it all to get a S13 with a Autech SR20DE. Im sure i know a few of you from around the place, meets etc. im part of the Cars For Hope team so i attend most of the meetups and stuff, anyway looking forward to talking to everone and stuff, Thanks! Myles.
  6. Red Racing's r32 drift piggy

    We have just started the build on our R32 gtst drift piggy. I'm Going to try and keep this thread up dated as we go through it. First jobs off the bat were putting the front bar back together properly (no cable ties here) sanding all the rattle can off it ready for full re spray. sanding back rear bar installing N1 oil pump Z32 AFM New Front coilovers Theres lots more to come so heres some pics.
  7. looking for a new head gasket as the sil is making 17psi and the old one is leaking, what company and size would you guys recommend? I'm looking for it to be as reliable as I can get it. I was thinking along the lines of cometic 0.51
  8. Hey I own a black R32 2 door skyline and i would like some new rims on them. im into similar wheels like volks te37 but they are two common so i want something different. it would be nice to hear peoples opinions and thoughts
  9. rebuilding rb20det

    Ok guy i need abit of help im going to rebuild my rb20det. Want to know a few things: where is best to get quality parts? If i was to put cams in it what size/brand and where from? Whats a good turbo for this engine currently got T4 how thick should i go with headgasket? any other pointers would be great. cheers
  10. Hi guys, I already had a build thread but now I have a better idea of what I am doing with the car and decided to just start again. Bought this S13 of another forum member. It was originally a CA18DE Auto but has been converted to an RB20DET Manual. So here it is... Goals • Have a reliable track car that can perform street duties and be driven to the track and back • Lightweight and responsive • Clean inside and out. Don’t want a track bitch. • Something to learn circuit and Hillclimb racing and grow my skills for the future Inspiration - Why do I do it? A number of cars have caught my eye and given me inspiration and ideas. Over the year I have seen quite a few and the last few months I have really looked at a few and realized how much time, money and effort goes into preparing something like this. Here are just a few: SXDevelopments 180SX PSR Tuning 180SX Time Attack Car Speedy Refrigeration / Option1Garage OUTLAW Sil80 Racecar Stage 1 – Basic Track Preperation and Setup This stage is all about getting the car ready for its first track day. I will be getting new suspension components and making some minor weight reduction. 1. Parts to be installed: • Buddyclub BR Coilovers (10kg/8kg) • Gktech Camber arms • Gktech toe arms • Gktech traction rods • Gktech slip on sub collars • Nardi Steering wheel • Bride Brix 1.5 Drivers Seat • Apexi Boost Gauge • GKTech Radiator overflow bottle • Braille Dry Cell Battery • Service (Filters, Coolant flush etc.) • OEM or Nismo Thermostat • Turbosmart Plumb back BOV 2. Wheel Choice: 4 x P1 Buddy Clubs in 17 x 8 +22/+32 2 x P1 Buddy Clubs in 17 x 9 +37 plus Semi Slicks for all 6 wheels These are currently white. I will be getting them powdercoated bronze or gunmetal after first trackday. 3. Complete Rewire: The current wiring job from the previous owner just doesn’t meet my standards. I don’t have the skills to pull it all out or extend the wiring more so that it’s neat and tidy. I am sending the car and an uncut engine loom to Anthony at Dahtone Racing to get fixed. The plan is to remove the current wiring and replace it, place the fuse box back into the engine bay and most likely move the battery back in too. The battery I am using is a Braille B106. Only weighs 3.5KG and puts out 500PCA (Pulse Cranking Amps – 5sec instead of 30sec with CCA) 4. Tune: Once the car is returned from the rewire it will be going straight to Jez from DVS Tuning. He is going to be installing a NIStune board and getting the initial tune done on the car. This way I know that the car is running right, I can continue to put out reliable and safe power on the track without worrying and I can also have a base power output to work from. 5. Weight Reduction: I have removed the following as initial weight reduction: • Rear Seats • Rear seatbelts • Rear interior trims + boot trims I intend to try and get the car on a scale at some stage to work out what the current weight comes in at. Again, I will then have a base weight to work off and can set my goals from there. EVENT 1: Ringwood Hillclimb April 21st, 2013 Stage 2 – Suspension Tuning, Weight Reduction and Tidy Up After the Hillclimb I should have a rough idea of where the car is lacking in. This stage will be about fine tuning the suspension setup so that come the next track day I am more confident in how the car will handle and thus allow me to learn more from it. 1.Parts to be purchased and installed: • Nismo TT 1.5 Way Mechanical Diff • Suspension Components • More… 2. Suspension Tuning: I will be installing new suspension items if required. Most likely will get adjustable sway bars and then will play with the wheel alignment. I will also be installing an AGI Bolt-In Halfcage. More to follow… 3. Weight Reduction: I am still undecided on this. I am unsure wether to remove the sound deadening or not. Here are the Pros and Cons I can think of: •Pros oReducing Weight oLooks much cleaner and will most likely paint interior afterwards •Cons: oApparently noisy as hell – haven’t been in a car without it yet though. 4. Tidy Up: I will be painting the half cage before it goes into the car. I haven’t decided on a colour yet. Probably either gloss black or gloss white as an offset. Apart from this I intend to go over the car and replace any hoses that look like they may fail and replace most of the hose clamps. I will tidy up the front half of the interior as well. I want to replace the steering column surround and will try and have the gauge mounted in the air vents nice and neat. Stage 3 – Braking and Power After the next couple of events my next stage of mods will be to assist me in developing my skills. I want to increase the braking capacity as I feel that the SR20 brakes just won’t hold up under track conditions. If I feel the need is there I will also use the opportunity to increase the power. I still want to keep the car very responsive so power figures I am looking at would be no more than 220-250kw. 1. Parts to be purchased and installed: • R33 5 stud conversion • 5 Stud wheels • Turbo + Accessories 2. Braking: Although I have put this off for a while I can’t deny the fact that I am going to have to go 5 stud. I will look at R33 5 stud conversions and use that. Mostly they go for about $800 at the moment. That may fluctuate in the future but hopefully it will go down and not up. Due to this I will also have to sell my Buddyclub P1’s and go to something else lightweight. May end up spending an extra $1000 but will see how I go. 3. Power: This will either happen now or later down the track (no pun intended). I will look to increase the power of the car whilst still keeping it very responsive. I’m not looking for high power but usable power. No point having 400kw+ and not being able to use it. Also, I don’t believe that I would be able to handle it. Will look at Turbo options later on. Stage 3 – Let the good times roll…and then move on! For a while I will continue to grow and build my knowledge and skills. I will continue to enter as many events as possible and keep enjoying myself. My intentions will be to keep doing Hillclimbs, Motorkhanas, Supersprints and Time Attack for most of 2013 and possibly 2014. If I start to feel my skills have improved enough it will be time to move on. I would like to end up doing Circuit Racing. Probably start off doing the iRace Championship. If I do this I will sell the Silvia and move on to a R32/R33 GTR. Pictures: As of now... Front by Peter Mackellin, on Flickr Nardi Wheel by Peter Mackellin, on Flickr Bride Seat Installed by Peter Mackellin, on Flickr Interior Rear 2 by Peter Mackellin, on Flickr Engine Bay by Peter Mackellin, on Flickr Things that have changed since these pics are: • Braille Battery swapped in • GKTech Coolant Overflow Bottle installed
  11. Hi there and thanks. The story is I've replaced the radiator, headlights, intercooler and piping, spark plugs &c of a 89 Silvia wreck. Around a month ago when i tested the electrics with a battery and jumper cables she turned over, now I don't have accessories or anything when the battery is hooked up. Notable information: There are dodgy soldered wires around the place from the last owner. when the negative was hooked up the positive can spark touching random metal in the engine bar but not the positive terminal. ^I suspect good earth blown fuse, shorting electrics?^ Thanks again for any input guys, I appreciate it.
  12. rb20det s13 for sale $3,725

    Hi guys Got this silly in the drive way.