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Found 14 results

  1. Hi guys, Few bits and pieces listed, please ask for pics if needed. 180SX Type X Front drivers skirt pod $80 180SX Type X Rear floor mat (x1 only) $30 180SX Rear Reo bar $50 180SX Rear Number Plate lights $10 SOLD 180SX GK Tech no holes intercooler kit complete as new $450 SOLD 180SX Powerbond 20% underdrive pulley as new $300 180SX Vertex Rear bar silver fitted great $200 180SX Silver Bonnet faded paint $150 180SX Drivers side headlight cover panel $20 SOLD 180SX Drivers side headlight frame inc harnesses and motor $20 180SX Crystal Headlamp , single only $30 180SX Speedo surround panel, no holes or cracks $80 180SX column surround no holes $40 180SX ECU redtop $100 180SX SR slave cylinder $20 180SX tail shaft loop $10 180SX Rear Bumper cover black $50 180SX Window upper trims matt black pair $40 180SX Window upper trims good condition pair $50 180SX Window weather strip (lower window trim) pair $40 180SX Type X tail light globe holder (for one side) $25 180SX Gearbox crossmember "B" $50 180SX Power Steering pump $60 RB26 R34 Starter Motor mint $200 RB26 Aluminium Engine mount brackets $50 SOLD RB26 Blow off valve $50 SOLD RB26 gearbox crossmember $40 RB26 rear main seal housing $30 R32 Rear lower trims Left and Right 6/10 nick $50 R33 S2 Bonnet dents and scratches been in accident but usable $50 3" Stainless decat with flanges barrel type $50 SOLD 4 stud Lenso wheels set 17x7" one mismatched with 2 fried 2 ok tyres $200 Z32 AFM and Tomei plug kit to suit used $200 No other parts available, located Melbourne's east. Cheers, Mat. 0400 558 030
  2. Within the next few years I'm going to be doing an engine conversion on my 180sx. Currently it's running a silver top sr20 n/a. I'm going to either swap in a turboed sr (blacktop topnotch version) or a rb26det (single turbo conversion) The goal for the car is to be a daily but semi show car. I'm not looking for massive amounts of power but I will be rebuilding the engine, forged internals, cams, etc etc. The at I assume will be easy, out with the old in with the new basically. And the rb will take more work, R32 front front end, ecu, wiring, tail shaft, gearbox, sump, brakes, and a few other things. Has anyone done a rb26 in a 180 in this forum that's can help out with pros vs cons and questions about it? I'd like the car to be clean have a working aircon, reliable, and handle like its on rails. Cheers in advance
  3. rb26 clutch plates!

    WTB: 2x 3010C-RS045 RB26 clutch plates to suit Nismo red cover G-max twine plate. proving to be reeeallly hard to find ! where the hell do you get them?
  4. Let me address something really quick Yes i had a mint s14 track car with killer reliable Sr setup yes i re-shelled into 350z vert yes i parted it out due to a failed relationship and losing my house yes i f**ked around with a heap of shit box's for a year or so working part time with f**k all cash to finish anything. Now i moved back to my home town and working full time at my old job. Sold up everything and started fresh. Here it is The kranzes were awesome but i didnt want to buy a heap more of them, and didnt want to destroy them so they have moved on. The front got a cut And then tubed it all together, used some trick rose joints to make most of it adjustable and get the fit just right. And a bit nicer than just some bolted up tube. Just finished removing seam sealer and sound deadener from wheel archs and bay, finished stitch welding one side but got other side to go then engine bay will get painted. Rear copped a pretty decent chop aswell, got some more i want to take out tho.
  5. Bee*R rev limiter

    I have for sale a bee*R rev limiter, it's in vgc brand new never used. I took it out of the box but never got to install it in my car before I sold it, suits all rotary, 4 and 6 cylinder engines. Asking for $150 but I'm negotiable.
  6. 1994 RPS13 180SX

    Hi guys, this is my 1994 Nissan RPS13 180sx, have been building it for the last 3 years off an on, mostly off haha, but have decided to get it finished an road legal in new zealand again. Engine/Engine Bay - 100km from Japanese spares blacktop sr20det - Sinco top mount - Sinco pipping - Sinco Re circ system - Sinco Catch can - Sinco modified apexi 3.35inch exhaust, apexi cannon for street, Sinco twin pipes for track - DSR 430 turbo - TiAL 38mm mvs watercooled wastegate - TiAL 50mm bov - Mild porting(flapper wheel) - Red Anodized Pulleys - Metal headgasket - Oil filter relocation kit - Greddy style winged sump, holds 6.5 liters of HKS Racing oil - Greedy style plenum - ID1000cc Injectors - HKS copy fuel rail - Xtreme Heavy duty racing clutch Wheels/Suspension - BC golds - Work meister Reps, 17x9 15p - Front castor arms - Hardrace rear upper camber arms - Hardrace rear traction arms - Hardrace rear toe arms Interior - Sinco half cage - NZKW pair of fixed bucket seats - Sylvester 3 inch 5 point racing harness - HKS Boost gauge - HKS type 0 turbo timer - Nismo White gearknob - Custom Carbon fibre panel Fuel system - Walbro intank 500hp - Bosch 044 fuel pump - 2.5 litre surge tank - Tomei type s fuel reg - Tomei Gauge NEXT ON THE PLANS; Get the fabrication finished then get a new ecu, would love a d-jetro power fc but they are hard to find for my engine an harder to get in new zealand, going offshore would be the best bet to secure one, either that or a link ecu. looking for a modest 250rwkw i will be happy with that, then to be road registered again an who knows my rb30 block will be next haha Any comments/flames or suggestions are welcome. cheers Surge tank setup all done Custom adapter, was cheaper to machine one than buy a tomei one How the engine looks at the moment, the fuel rail is no good so sinco will make a custom one for me an have the fuel presure regulator coming off that Wound the bc golds as low as they could go in the rear, then brought rear arms to bring wheels back out The seats an cage, its all black on black, like to keep it simple This is how the engine was before i started to do fuel an intake, was fresh from sinco customs Side view of the intercooler an radiator setup Video's: Start up an engine view: Walk around from twin pipes: First test drive, found a few bugs: Second test drive, 10psi twin pipes an screamer: Third test drive, 10psi no screamer an apexi canon on:
  7. ISC Adjustable cam gears on sale for $75 each!! http://www.isccoilovers.com.au/isc-adjustable-cam-gears ISC PU engine and gearbox mounts to suit Silvia $255 http://www.isccoilovers.com.au/engine-and-gearbox-mount-kit ISC PU engine mounts to suit Silvia $125 http://www.isccoilovers.com.au/engine-mounts ISC PU gearbox mounts suit Silva $125 http://www.isccoilovers.com.au/gearbox-mount
  8. From today until Christmas we will be selling S13, 180sx, S14, S15, jzx90 and jzx100 ISC N1 coilovers for only $999!!! www.isccoilovers.com.au
  9. So, I have been enjoying my s15 very much lately, and I’m quite happy with the awesome little sr20det unit but I got to thinking late one night while on Google about people swapping the iconic straight 6 rb26dett into the s chassis cars. Did some research but didn’t turn up any concrete reading material or opinions. If I was to spend 7-10 thousand on the sr20det over x period of time and aim for around 240-50ish rwkw would you think it’s a better idea to just put that sort of money toward an engine swap that is putting out similar power in its stock oem form? As opposed to spending money modifying an engine to reach said power level but hinder its life and reliability/driveability in the process? As the topic says, this is just for general talking/chat/opinions. Try to keep the hate between each other to a minimal What would you say is involved for the diy man to do such a conversion himself if they had access to friends with welding skills, good knowledge on the Nissan engines and mechanics etc. and was to leave tuning and final set up to a reputable shop? What parts, components, custom work, tools would be required? For a street car, how would you go about engineering it, insurance? Thanks everyone, hope we can get a good, knowledge filled thread going here. I’m sure many Nissan enthusiasts would enjoy a read. Cheers
  10. What you want from a high performance racing oil? The modern engine designs of today need lubricants that can handle higher running temps to ensure viscosity consistency, while reducing consumption and oil film breakdown. Have you not noticed how modern engine run hotter? They are generally running 10-15deg C hotter or more when supercharged/ turbocharged. This is to improve combustion and reduce emissions. So how hot is hot when a car overheats? Enough to break down most oils and melt soft metal bearings, that’s how hot. Everyday oils are not able to handle excessive heat though and will reduce in viscosity by as much as 40% once it reaches 130 °C which means a 10w40 will perform like a 10w25. Motul’s high performance Ester synthetics are designed to handle higher temps without affecting the viscosity. High Performance engines always increase the load pressures placed upon moving components. High lift cams and stiffer valve springs load up the lifters, rocker arms and valve ends. Newer designs incorporate gear driven overhead cams which bring a new challenge. More internal gearing will shear the engine oil faster. High performance engines also need a balanced friction modifier package so that the ring seals stay strong, roller and ball bearings roll in the race and plain bearings have as little drag as possible. Because of this, Motul adds Extreme Pressure (EP) additives such as Zinc (ZDDP) and a STRONG EP additive, called a Sulfurized Ester to handle the shear/meshing of the engine. EP additives come into play at the instant an extreme pressure is applied and high temperatures are created. ZINC lays down a barrier that prevents metal to metal contact and the SULFURIZED ESTER produces a sacrificial film that is destroyed during very strong extreme pressures. The key advantage of Sulfurized Ester is that it prevents SEIZING. EP additives are generally corrosive especially those used in car gearboxes. The other advantage of Esters is that it is far less corrosive and more environmentally safe. Advertisements for oil products being tested with a ball bearing under 100,000 pounds of pressure fail to mention that most EP additives are corrosive. Performance engines used in endurance types of competition need strong ANTI-ACID (BASE, TBN, total base number). Condensation (the steam that you see coming out of your tail pipe in the morning) is a natural by-product of combustion in an engine. This condensation, which is acidic water, passes by the rings under compression into the crankcase and mixes with the sulphur, SULFURIC ACID is created. ANTI-ACID (Base) neutralizes the acid before it can cause any damage. E85 engines have it worse. E85 creates a greater acidic dilution than conventional ULP so look for a higher TBN is you run E85. High revving engines need strong Anti-Foam Additives. Higher RPMs aerates the oil more and bubbles will cause damage to your engine. Why? Foam is air; air will compress and also insulates. Air being compressed under load will separate oil and permit metal to metal contact. It also doesn’t transmit heat from hot metal parts to the oil very well or vice versa. Oil temp’s can rise due to inefficient heat exchange. Another major problem is oil pumps are not designed to pump air and your oil pressure will drop. Endurance engines need strong dispersants to suspend materials and combustion by-products which are created and rubbed off during normal operations. If you find worn components in your older race engine, ask yourself a question: Where did the material go? It has been compressed and the material is still there, just in a different place; or The materials were rubbed off and washed right into the oil! You want the material to stay in tiny pieces and stay mixed in the oil so that the oil filter can do its job. There are many devices on the market now that surround the filter with a magnet to capture some wear metals. Race engines need a strong detergent. With more heat generation (more horsepower per ci) trying to fry the oil onto the engine parts, carbon build-up and other by-products from combustion need to be washed away quickly so it doesn’t end up clogging the oil galleries. These are only some of the points Motul considers when designing high performance fluids. As discussed earlier, synthetics can handle much higher running temperatures than conventional petroleum oils and can withstand more stress. Many people ask, so what! I don’t push my vehicle that hard and I change oil every 3000kms. I don’t need expensive performance oil in my car. This type of thinking is wrong! Picture this; it’s a hot summer’s day and you are in peak hour traffic. For whatever reason, your car starts to get hot, real hot (Thermo fan stops working or a radiator hose breaks, whatever it may be). What oil would you like to have in your car? A mineral oil that acts like butter which burns up and evaporates very quickly, coking up your piston rings and lifters with carbon. Or Motul Synthetic/Ester oil that can handle super high RUNNING temps without the resulting damage (160°C to 190°C)? Motul High Performance Synthetic Ester oils are INSURANCE not just maintenance. The same is true about brake fluids and gear oils. Brake fluid only fails you when you need it the most – when braking! Same goes for engine oil. For further information regarding the Motul range, visit www.motul.com.au! Join us on FB https://www.facebook...323033041043007
  11. Droptop GTR - RB26 S13 vert

    Thought I'd start up a build thread to track the progress of my new project car as i didn't really manage too with my first project. Anyway old project turned out like this; SR20det drift shitter with all your basic mods to make ~300hp and turn a tyre in anger. I've had the car near on 5 years but its probably only seen a years worth of actual road/track use so i have grown bored of it. **** Enter the new rig. It popped up on a local forum, one owner since being imported into Aus and very well priced. It Looked quite clean and I had always wanted to own a convertible. I went for an inspection, car was not as clean as I had hoped but i saw it had huge potential and after I turned on the ignition... it was hard to say no! And so the new project begins... Current plans are some basic maintenance/mods it requires to be a good healthy street/track car. However, once these issues are sorted the car will be getting baller rims, stance, custom half cage, a decent 350-400hp highmount setup and all the usual support mods a drift car requires. Mods list as of when i bought it is; Engine Modifications RB26DETT MoTeC M8 + ignition expander BNR34 GTR twin turbos (steel-wheel) Bar/plate FMIC Trust Grex 1.2mm headgasket Trust Grex adjustable cam-gears Trust oil filter relocator Trust Type-S bov Nismo engine mounts Bosch 040 fuel pump (brand new) Custom baffled sump Nismo thermostat R32GTST radiator Twin 10” thermo fans Twin K&N pod filters 3BAR MAP sensor Exterior Modifications BN Sports front bar BN Sports side skirts M-Sports front guards Vertex rear bar Widened rear guards Despoilered Resprayed in phantom black Suspension and Wheels Modifications Rear strut-brace Nismo twin plate sprung centre clutch Nismo lightened flywheel R33GTST 5-speed gearbox Custom one-piece tailshaft Nismo gearbox mount R32 GTST LSD R32 GTR front brakes R33 GTST rear brakes CNC billet hubs (front) R33 GTST axles/hubs (rear) 18" Starcorp Kaotik rims with 225/40/18 (front) & 255/35/18 (rear) (90%+ tread all-round) pic on from the day i picked it up... engine bay... How it currently sits since chucking in my coilovers and Bride seats (yes car will eventually be lower but with it currently regularly being jacked up for mechanical work this is a more practical height).
  12. I'm From Montreal Canada (and speek french and english but sorry for the mistakes I'll do in adavance ) The Car (not finished yet but will be soon) Here the laws are much more loose than yours for modification (no special plate, no police checkup if you don't do silly stuff in from of them, we are allowed to swap engine do whatever we want as long a we keep the original point of attatch for the engine and dont modifie the crossmember, stuff like that). The Cars the sell here are borring, we could import 15 year old RHD from japan but since it was going crasy now since 2 years we can't inspect them anymore so...now we cant plate them anymore... (to many crasy cars for cheap to too young drivers so imagin the reputation of RHD on this side of the planet...) Here the ''cheap fun car'' are old 1990 nissans 240sx (came with the KA24 ) 300zx N\A or TT... and stuff like th but are all eaten by winter salt so all of them are only good for scrap with major rust issues ... That Said I Found a Mint MINT restored chassis of a 1992 Nissan 240 SX Fastback, (here they are all 240'S with only the flip lights so we had the equivalent of the 180sx and the onevia all with the 2.4 liters KA Either DE or the E ..so our 240sx weren't powerfull at all). Engine Speaking I choose a RB26 a Rare engine for our region...and swapped in a 180 there is not a lot around here I can tell you... My friend had a blown one in his r32 He parted out and I had my old tranny from my Stolen R32 Rb25 skyline GTST wich I planed to rebuild. So Basicly I decided To Rebuilt the engine with all the mods that we all know to make it reliable and some fancy head I found by luck (a 800 hp 9500rpm (apprently...never seen proof of that) skyline parted out and had a fully built by Hokue Racing Factory engine) At that time I didnt know what was in the head only it had apexi cams and a port and polish. After I brought it to my engine guy he opened it and check it and it was all apexi pink stuff in it cam are Apexi GT step 2 264 duration ...so basicly a very nice head . NICE because I paid the price of the cams for the entire head...good call Mister Bond. Wanted to keep the twin turbo ...still don't know why, maybe I tought I'd have more response or whatever...well bad choice because my car beeing a LHD the steering colum is in the way to have dual 3 inches downpipes... still made it this way... it's very thight but it fits... BRAVO! I kept the stock manifold, putted 2 Garret GT2860-5 Turbos in there, Tomei Expreme downpipe and a mated to a 4 inches oval SS exausth (5x3 inches ...) 2x3inches downpipe into a 5x3 y pipe si a Killer flow setup I believe... and all the other that have seen it too.. A little list of what is on the engine...I probably forgot some but hey...that will give you an Idea.. Rb26dett : Head: (built by hokue racing factory in japan) my mecanic made the list for me. Port N polish apexi GT step 2 -- 264 duration 10,6lift in/exh ; apexi pink springs apexi guides and lifters. Cometic full gasket kit ARP head studs. Oil restrictor Custom Rear Oil Return to Pan Greddy Intake Divided Turbo Outlet Base; All balanced Wiseco piston & rods Acl race bearings ARP main bearings studs N1 oil and water pump R34 N1 crankshaft Modified oem oil pan 800 CC seimens deka injectors OEM manifolds 2xGt2860-5 turbos tomei expreme 2 1/2 inchs dump pipes..... 4 inches oval strait pipe exausth. Intercooler I found a used ARC that was in a front clip of a rb26 s13 out here in a JDM junkyard...it's ugly on the pictures but I have made it look better unfold the little fins and paint it black I made a variable exausth system, via the stock 240sx muffler (no muffler ticket because here...you can swap but not change your exausth) or strait pipe to the ground...stealth mode I put it on 18 inches pinks Gewalt Evo 2 18x10 +35 on all 4 wheels, (30mm widebody in front, rolled the fenders like crasy in the back) 235 in front 275 in the back. Suspension is all Tein Monoflex , All the arms are made by bings here in canada (www.bings.ca) good stuff... no shipping cost ..no custom...happy me. In the rear to make it more durable I puted a Skyline GTR R32 Subframe that had a 2way lsd in it... The front brakes are changed to GTR as well.... 5 bolts hubs in front and it's all good to have the nice mags. I have tons of other stuff but that will do for today I have to do other stuff than computer . for all the pictures you can go on my photobucket folder it's public : http://photobucket.com/ThaBIATCH240 I will post some pictures of the build : that's about it!!! anyone want to go for a ride? here's the keys
  13. Thought i would put up my car so far....... slowly building her up, as much as the old hip pocket will allow. trying to go for a bit of an allrounder but mainly built for street and drag....... so far: Specs: - R33 block • JE pistons & ring set • Shot peened conrods • Race series ACL main & conrod bearings • ARP rod bolts • Acid bathed block - Modified rb25 sump - Std r34 head - stock cams with Tomei cam gears - Precision 6266cea - Custom steam pipe manifold with egt's ports - Precision 46mm gate - 4" dump pipe, 5" cat, full 4' exhaust into varex - ID 1000 injectors - Aeroflow twin feed rail - Fuel lab regulator (running e-flex) - walbro 255 lift pump with 2x bosch 044 and custom surge tank in boot - wolf v550 - 2j2 wideband controller unit - apexi avcr - splitfire coilpacks - 600x300x100 thick cooler, with custom 3'' cooler piping - custom catchcan, powersteering resivour etc - 52mm alloy radiator - 14' and 12' electric thermos - modified gtr box (transfercase and gears removed) - hks twinplate, - greddy type r coilovers - tein front castor rods - cusco camber arms (front and rear) - work meisters sp1 18x8.5 -4 front 18x9.5+26 - genuine blitz bonnet - carbon N1 boot lip There'll be some stuff ive forgot but still alot more to come thats for sure
  14. BENO'S RB26 SIL80

    Hey guys, I thought its about time 2 chuck a build thread up of my rig after seeing sum of the other crazy build threads on here.. Owner- Ben Crawford Age- 25 Occupation- mechanic Car- 1994 Nissan 180SX BIT OF HISTORY: Well for starters, when i bought it, it was a '94 180SX blacktop SR.. Got the car off a mate of mine mid 2008, being close to stock, wasn't running. It had a fmic, zorst and nackered coilys, 4 stud with 16" avs model 6's… Since buying it I had chucked on sum sard 550's, nisstune remap, hks 2510, bout 190kw.. coilys etc… was ultra responsive and loved it! Then started having some boost issues due to a nackered actuator on the 2510 so i thought id just sell up n put a 25 in it... then the 26 popped up I pulled the car off the road in November 2008. My original plan was to do the RB26 conversion as cheap as possible, and get the car back on the road within a couple of months.. then decided that because the car wasn't exactly up 2 scratch I wanted to make everything schmick if there was gona be an RB26 under the bonnet.. so heres sum pics n details of the build... enjoy UPDATED MOD LIST AFTER BLOWING TURBOS INTERIOR: Apexi RSM Stripped interior Removed sound deadening Removed heater box, aircon etc etc... Resprayed interior RCR full weld in custom rollcage Bride fixed back seats 2x sabelt 4-point harnesses Autometer oil pressure warning light Autosport hydraulic handbrake Custom handbrake bracket custom isolator switch bracket dry cell BSC battery in boot in box Benny's C pillar brace Benny's rear floor harness brace Spats rear strut brace Interior completely rewired with only the essentials Fuses/relays/ecu/igniter all mounted on panel under the dash.. Nardi 350mm deep corn with red stitching Greddy electronic boost, oil temp, water temp and oil pressure gauges EXTERIOR: Full respray in daihatsu naked-olive green metallic S13 front (sil80) S13 J's headlights with juran clear covers Juran corner smoked parker/indicator lenses Origin type 2 carbon bonnet Origin stylish front bar Origin stylish rear bar Origin stylish side skirts Origin 30mm twin vent front fenders Origin 30mm rear fenders Origin carbon canards 2up carbon roof lip Koguchi Power 1750mm carbon GT wing Type X taillights Rays TE37's bronze 4x 18x9.5 +12 CST hyper zero bronze 2x 17x9.5 +15, 4x 18x9.5 +15 CST hyper zero chrome 2x 17x9.5 +15 20K HID's Strobe kit for the moisty's ENGINE: R33 GTR RB26DETT (still 2.6L) Engine rebuilding done by Paul from Southcott's 8.8:1 compression HEAD: Ported + polished Brian Crower valve springs Brian Crower titanium retainers Tomei Procams 270 10.25 Tomei solid lifters HKS cam gears Cometic 1.2mm metal head gasket Spool external oil return Custom oil return BLOCK: CP pistons 20thou oversize Manley H-Beam conrods Manley rod bolts ARP head studs ARP main studs ACL race bearings Custom oil feed restrictor N1 oil pump housing Hi Octane oil pump gearset N1 water pump RCR custom sump R33 GTR balancer UNDERBODY/DRIVELINE: ORC 559D twin plate RB25DET gearbox Nismo clutch pivot Solid steering spacer Braided clutch line Custom tailshaft Custom gearbox crossmember Nismo gearbox mount GTR cusco 4.3 2way GTR shafts GTR hubs Cradle Removed and welded with extra bracing New cradle bushes Brembo F40 front calipers + slotted rotors Project MU HC+ evo 8 front pads R33 twin piston rear calipers Project MU HC+ rear pads Endless RF-650 brake fluid PBR braided brake lines New JIC FLT-TAR coilovers F12kg R8kg GKtech rear camber arms Driftshop adjustable rear traction arms ISC adjustable rear toe arms GTR rear swaybar boxed and modded S14 front lca's boxed and braced front castor brace S14 5 stud hubs all round SMM nuckles SMM billet rack spacers Ikeya formula S14 tie rods KTS roll centre tie rod ends Tien castor rods Signature front swaybar All bushes been replaced with superpro and nolathane items BOLT ON'S: Cometic full gasket kit Gates racing timing belt Sard fuel rail Sard fuel pressure reg Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors Bosch 040 feed pump 2x Bosch 044 fuel pumps Custom surge tank setup Teflon braided lines 6 Boost manifold GT3076R .82 tial stainless v-band rear housing Tial MVR 44mm external gate (water cooled) Braided and speedflow everything AM performance full 3-4" turbo back exhaust system + custom muffler with titanium tip AM performance gate pipe out side skirt AM performance 4" lobster bent intake pipe AM performance turbo heat shield Cooler spray Turbosmart boost control solenoid Trust GTR front mount ASE oil cooler JJR oil filter relocater ASE power steering cooler Koyo alloy radiator CA18DET Thermo fans twin, dual stage Tomei engine plate HKS oil cap Adjustable oil pressure switch Gates racing radiator hoses Apexi pod Billion radiator cap Drift bottom rad hose adapter Nismo thermostat Smooth Garage poly engine mounts Ceffy xmember RB20 engine mount brackets Custom tubs Custom unboltable radiator support panel Rad support extended forward 40mm Custom supports behind strut towers Extensive hole filling and stitch welding in engine bay Engine covers/cage painted millennium jade Engine bay sand blasted and resprayed Custom lobster style stainless cooler piping and intake pipes Billion power steering reservoir Custom catch can Custom overflow bottle Autronic SM4 ecu (no O2 sensors or afm's etc) Hidden wiring Various parts polished Splitfire coilpacks now makes 331rwkw on 21psi 891nm on mainline roller dyno Car is still street rego'd The car is used mainly for drift, and time Attack. as of 27/10/2013: ran 12.0 @ 130mph at AIR on 18" semi slicks (no traction through first 2 gears lol) managed a pb of 1:14.80 around Mallala on hankook z221 semi slicks finished 12th in G1 drift comp for 2013 in my first year of competing
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