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Kristian Jercic

First time going through regency, looking for a bit of advice :)

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hey just before anyone mentions and gets butthurt i've read the sticky and done my research but there are a few grey areas i am a bit unsure of.

okay now back to it...

 

about a month ago a bought a defected s13, thinking sweet it's a bit cheaper it'll only cost a few hundred it get it through regency :D

it was defected for...

- wheels outside guards

- aftermarket steering wheel

- coilovers (but was told it was stock suspension...?)

 

i fixed all the things on the defect plus did a couple small things myself...

now i decided to go through some mechanics/wreckers yard (wont mention their name) to give it an inspection and take it through regency for me due to me being at work when regency is open... :(

 

they gave my a list of about approx 10 things that needed to be done. some of these i can understand but some seem like they are ripping me off.... anyway here is the list

 

- z32 afm

- front struts

- headlights/parkers/indicators

- adjustable caster rods

- drivers seat

- exhaust (i think they said it was too loud)

- sway bar bushes front

- LH rack boot

- RH rack boot clamp

- radiator brackets

- child restraints

- chassis rh crack

- RH H/L (head light i believe?)

- splitfire coilpacks

- front and rear crank seals leaking

- aftermarket tie rods

- rear number plate cut (but could still see all the letters/numbers clearly...)

 

So..... anyway everything in red i've gotten them to fix still but they were going to charge me $300 in labour to put the stock headlights/parkers/indicators on, take it through regency and then put mine back on... The bloke i was talking to said they needed to be changed because regency looking for something on the glass of the headlight (can't remember exactly, australian standards maybe?) but this felt a bit bullshit...

The drivers seat is a 32 gtr seat with a bit of a tear in it and a bit of a metal bar showing (photo included)

 

The AFM, exhaust, caster rods i can understand why they picked of them but the rest im not so sure...

 

these are the only pics i have atm as i dont have the car at my place at the moment :(

 

 

So basically, what would you guys advise?

Thanks in advance :) :)

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I could be wrong with a few things but I'm sure others on here will clarify anything wrong.

 

- z32 afm: I can't see why it will be a problem

- front struts: If they are not adjustable or worn out excessively they should be fine.

- headlights/parkers/indicators: If they are not damaged or tinted they should be fine.

- RH H/L: Refer to above

- adjustable caster rods: Anything adjustable will not pass.

- drivers seat: Won't pass with the wear and tear you have.

- exhaust: Best bet with the exhaust is to go standard saves a lot of trouble.

- radiator brackets: What's wrong with them?

- splitfire coilpacks: Hide them with your cover and they should be fine.

- aftermarket tie rods: I can't see any problem but could be wrong.

- rear number plate cut: When I went through regency I got picked up on my number plate being bent to fit in the rear bumper. You will not pass.

 

EDIT:

The bloke i was talking to said they needed to be changed because regency looking for something on the glass of the headlight (can't remember exactly, australian standards maybe?) but this felt a bit bullshit...

 

Anything that is designed to break in a particular way for safety reasons such as windows, lights etc will require a Australian Standard symbol stamped on it. I got picked on with my front parker lights because they didn't have the symbol.

Edited by B00sted180
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http://i.ebayimg.com/09/!B+Scp(gCGk~$(KGrHqUOKjkEzK6NtPcLBM+LN8BYgQ~~_12.JPG

 

These are the indicators I it had on when I bought it... same goes for the front bumper indicators. When i bought it it had 2 small holes on the front guards where the indicators used to be but i bought some smoked ones (from an s15 or cefiro cant remember) and cut the hole bigger to suit.

 

Are you basically saying I wont pass with these? Even though they still flash amber colour...

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Those indicators won't pass firstly because they are smoked and secondly because Mars is where I bought my indicators from and they don't come with the Australian Standard symbol. Best bet is to go a pair of second hand indicators and just put yours back on after you pass regency.

Edited by B00sted180
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Why do they make is so frustrating to pass :( better start searching gumtree for parts :P

 

edit: i made this thread dunno why i have a different username now lol

Edited by dropbear

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I just went outside and checked my parents cars, mum has a brand new Volkswagen she bought last year and dad has a vt commy (also bought brand new back in 99) and nethier of these had any writing or symbols on the headlight so I am a bit confused as to where this standard symbol is...?

 

Cheers :)

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If you have a look at your tail lights for instance there should be a symbol of some sort, when I went through regency that's what they pointed out to me. Its not actually Australian Standard as such due to the car not being Australian but its just to say that the lights are designed to required standards when the car was built.

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I just had a closer look at my folks cars again, both head and tail lights but could not see any symbols or lettering of any sort :S

Edited by dropbear

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I'll have a look at my set of tail lights and see if I can take a picture. I could be positive that the inspector pointed it out to me.

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boosted is right about the headlights/indicators/taillights etc.

 

regency thoroughly inspect your car if its not stock they will almost definitely know.

 

return it to stock everything and put it through.

 

or just take it through now and then they can tell you themselves that the healdights need to be changed etc etc and u have wasted 146 bucks or whatever the ridiculous price has gone up to now since i have been through.

 

also make sure your brakes/handbrake work well as they test ur brakes on a roller.

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Bit of a bump

 

I have stock coil packs which I plan on putting in however there is still the blue splitfire box which all the wires run into. What would u guys suggest about doing with it?

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I don't see how it would make a difference? There's millions of cars using aftermarket leads or coils. If anything it would reduce emissions given that it would produce a better spark. That said make sure the wiring is up to scratch. Then again I've never dealt with regency so I'm just rambling.

 

 

If it has a z32 afm It would have been tuned, is an emissions test part of the regency inspection?

Edited by tumbleweed

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Bit of a bump

 

I have stock coil packs which I plan on putting in however there is still the blue splitfire box which all the wires run into. What would u guys suggest about doing with it?

 

Fit the splitfire box into a black plastic jiffy box from Jaycar, then mount that box below the fuse box. You might even find that if you cut the mount tab off and trim the box up a bit, it may even be possible to fit it in the removable wire shroud that goes below the fuse box. Unbox the fuse box, flip it upside down, remove the lower tray and you'll see what I mean.

 

Although the goal is to hide it for regency, given how ugly the thing is, hiding it isn't excactly a bad thing.

 

I don't see how it would make a difference? There's millions of cars using aftermarket leads or coils. If anything it would reduce emissions given that it would produce a better spark.

 

Although you're quite right in saying that there are a tonne of cars running aftermarket leads, etc, it's not necessarily true to say that the aftermarket units are better. When I used to own an MA70 Supra, the stock Yasagi leads (whatever they were called, can't remember the name) were better quality than pretty much anything available from the aftermarket, and the car ran smoother with old stock leads than the high-end Eagle leads it came with lol.

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Okay got a few more questions. Firstly what is the deal with the foglights? Not sure if they're supposed to be the inside lights with tri projector headlights... Got a video that'll hopefully make it a bit easier to understand. Sorry for the shity quality but I hope my message gets through lol

 

Also got adjustable camber tops/arms that I need to change. How hard is that to do and is there a easy guide to follow?

 

Cheers for all the help!

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Also got adjustable camber tops/arms that I need to change. How hard is that to do and is there a easy guide to follow?

 

You will need a set of spring clamps to compress the spring.

- Remove strut from vehicle

- Compress spring

- Unscrew the top bolt

- Remove strut top replacing with non adjustable one

- Screw top nut back on

- Release the spring

- Reinstall strut

Just ensure you are extremely careful with compressing the spring, they are under a lot of pressure and if they happen to let go it can go flying in any direction at huge force.

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I wonder how you would go if you were to just buy some strut top covers from a Subaru Liberty or something (just throwing out that car because I know the parts it comes with), popping those over the camber tops and taking it through. Given it obviously uses a standard coil, I wonder whether they would bother taking off oem-looking strut top covers? This kind of thing:

 

0996b43f80219984.gif

 

I'll also take a moment to point out that Boosted's guide ^ requires you to have oem strut tops, which you will either have to buy new by sacrificing your firstborn to the Nissan gods, or pull off a spare set of oem struts. If you have a spare set of oem struts, just save yourself time and install those in place of the ones that you have, so that you can slot them back in afterwards. I've pulled a lot of struts apart and it isn't hard, but it takes way longer than ripping the old ones out and dropping the new ones it.

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Thats a pretty good idea pmod but i think im going to change it anyway just so i can get a bit more prac experience on the car :) only thing is im having trouble finding a pair of just the camber tops so looks like ill be buying another pair of struts :(

 

also can anyone help me with my foglight problem that i mentioned previously? http://tinypic.com/r/dytb29/8

 

thanks :) :) :)

Edited by dropbear

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The yellow lights on the inside are fog lights, hence they're yellow. Since they come on with the headlights:

  1. You could have a dodgy headlight rewire from someone in the past.
  2. The foglight switch might be designed to only trigger with the headlights (this is common, and wanker cops have told me before that "they have to come on with high beams", ignoring the purpose of fogs) so if you turn the foglights off you're left with just the high beams.
  3. You could have chafed and bridged wiring.

What's the actual problem? The video is 4 frames per second and you move the phone all over the place, so I really don't know what the issue is.

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Yeah the video is heaps bad because my camera doesn't work and I recorded it on another phone then Texted it to myself.

 

I just thought the foglight button would turn the yellow foglights on and not the parkers. Just hoping recency don't pick up oonit for bad wiring or some craps like that

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Regency should only ask you to turn your lights on: (Parkers, Low Beam, High Beam)

 

I can't see why you would have any problem with fog lights not working correctly when their an accessory and not all cars have them.

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hey got a question with the afm

trying to change it back to stock one but got confused as to which way the air flow was since there is no arrow on the afm itself

 

5vobxj.jpg

 

this is what i got originally so i thought the air flow was that way in the pic

 

took off the rubber joiner and decided it flowed the other way as it fit onto the air filter and pipe going to the turbo much easier, as well as the hole inside the afm which i assumed gauged the the air flow rate....

 

so yeah fairly sure it flows in the opposite direction to the pic above but just want to be 100% sure

 

 

and also when i bought the car he gave me another afm but it had a different part number on it and the plug faces up rather than straight out like the one in the pic above. apart from the number, it looks identical. just wondering if it was off a different car or what the deal is with that?

 

97jthk.jpg

 

other afm

 

 

cheers

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The air flow goes in the opposite direction as to what you have illustrated above and the second AFM is from a Nissan Sentra SR20DE

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will i need to retune my car once putting the stock afm back on?

im thinking i will, but hoping i wont have to lol

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The top picture is of a SR20 S13, the second picture is of a SR20 Sentra. If the car was running fine with the top one installed keep it in.

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finally got around to changing it all back to the stock sr20det afm. it seems to run sluggish now, will it need to be retuned? or is there an easy fix to this problem :)

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finally got around to changing it all back to the stock sr20det afm. it seems to run sluggish now, will it need to be retuned? or is there an easy fix to this problem smile.png

 

Yeah it would.

Alternatively, just go through Regency and chuck the other AFM back on :ph34r:

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