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Contemplating 300+rwkw Unopened SR...

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15k I would drop a RB25DET NEO into the car and make a responsive 400kW on the stock motor with change left over for hookers and cocaine

 

I've thought about it but the extra weight at the front is what I'm trying to avoid and it will be street driven also. The hookers and cocaine just doesn't work on the bonnet of my car, they leave snail trails generally. :woot:

 

Lightweight shockproof oil is f**king garbage. get anything else. I switched to nulon and my box went from noisy and notchy to silent and smooth.

 

Don't know what experiences you've had but my box shifted and sounds smoother than ever with lightweight shockproof. I overfilled it with 2.2L of it and works a treat.

 

Need to run a Gtx3071. A Gt just doesn't like to spin at high boost. Also a 260poncam with tomei or hls valve springs to retain vtc. Head studs. And obviously the other supporting mods. Tom tucker built an unreal Sr and so did kdog, both breaking 300wkw with a gtx3071. What mod did you get done to the box? And who did it? The box will hold that power if it hasn't started to chip teeth off the reverse gear. Only way to tell its healthy is to pull it down. If you aren't slamming/chirping in to 3rd n 4th it'll be fine. The damage is only done shifting in to those gears. Other than that 1/2 5/6 is all good just like the 5speed Sr box

 

If I'm running a GTX I may as well go top mount twin scroll EFR 7163 :P. I've got a set of Supertech 75lb springs, 15 lbs more than the Tomei Type A (basically stock). Head Studs will require the head to be removed which could work well. I agree with the box, the 3rd and 4th is a problem with the corclip issue between those gears. I hade mine regrooved by Status Engineering. Box seems fine after 2 years of mild abuse but no clutch kicks and no chirping in 3rd or 4th. The organic clutch makes sure of that.

 

I checked the weight of the VQ37VHR (370z motor with VVEL) and it's the same weight as an SR20! Even better if I could source a VR38 R35 motor with a gearbox that is compatible but that's a long way away. A twinscroll top mount looks like a good move with VCT. I was thinking about a quick spool valve but I've heard hit and miss on them. The Supra boys love it though.

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head can stay on when you're doing headstuds.. just need to pull out cams (if I recall correctly with SR, RB you can do it with everything still on)

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FOR WHAT ITS worth, a fully forged, head ported oversized valves basically the works with a 2L 40tho over is around the 10k mark for someone to build it. you can then drop it in your self and bolt the rest up.

 

for the same coin you get a rb25 bolted in there, used abused and stock....

 

yeah head studs are under cams in sr. but if your pulling them out id do head gasket whilst there.

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but you see, the fully abused thrashed off it's tits RB25DET NEO will serve you another few hundred thousand kms before it lets go... my motor is an Edward Lee's special edition, probably has over 300000km on the clock but dash says it's 149000km LOL

 

And if it blows, another used one can be had about $1500.

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/thread

 

dont be soft ! do it !!!!!!

 

I have been misinformed, the VQ37 and VR38 engines are closer to 250 KG. That's another 100 KG heavier at the front then the SR20. Damn!

To keep the car balanced, the SR20VET is still a better option but yes, painfully expensive still when comparing with other alternatives.

 

If I don't the bottom block or box at all I only pay aorund $9k not including labour though. With a Z33 box and built block It's closer to $15k+ but keeping in mind that both options include a new turbo, injectors, Haltech ECU, manifolds, FPR, etc which I will need anyway. In fact what will actually cost me the conversion is just the head $1600, runners for intake $800, exhaust manifold $700 and Haltech ECU $2000. The rest I would need to do with another upgrade anyway. I can sell what I already have for about $4k so that's a decent rebate :).

 

But even knowing that, if I had cash to burn I'd definitely plant a VR38DETT in an S15. It would be one hell of a fun project.

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P11 VE heads are usually 1200ish but seem to come as full motors. They come with I take runners. You buy a excessive plenum for 500 and get someone to weld on a elbow for the throttle body (or rotate the flange) and weld on a idle valve flange.

 

Buy an Adaptronic plug in for 1500 which is an awesome ECU, hugely capable.

 

Exhaust manifold from a DET can be reused by slotted the bolt holes 3mm - the ports are the same. If you're buying a standalone you buy the taarks hall sensor instead of a p12 cas. It's cheaper, neater and better.

 

Search for the VE conversion guide I did. I think its in this sub forum

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Is there anymore left in the GTX28..?

You mentioned on your dyno graph there was potentially high flow cat restriction and possible wastegate issues?

 

If a head gasket and some studs weren't out of the question;

surely that may get you closer to 300rwkw (and be cheaper) on the current setup without changing the majority of the hotside..?

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E63 AMG

/thread lol

 

Haha, same cost if not more than a GTR transplant conversion perhaps.

 

P11 VE heads are usually 1200ish but seem to come as full motors. They come with I take runners. You buy a excessive plenum for 500 and get someone to weld on a elbow for the throttle body (or rotate the flange) and weld on a idle valve flange.

 

Buy an Adaptronic plug in for 1500 which is an awesome ECU, hugely capable.

 

Exhaust manifold from a DET can be reused by slotted the bolt holes 3mm - the ports are the same. If you're buying a standalone you buy the taarks hall sensor instead of a p12 cas. It's cheaper, neater and better.

 

Search for the VE conversion guide I did. I think its in this sub forum

 

Thanks dude, PJ was charging me $1550 for the complete head with solenoids so I was looking at that for now. If I end up with the motor it will just be excess baggage to carry and scrap.

 

Is there anymore left in the GTX28..?

You mentioned on your dyno graph there was potentially high flow cat restriction and possible wastegate issues?

 

If a head gasket and some studs weren't out of the question;

surely that may get you closer to 300rwkw (and be cheaper) on the current setup without changing the majority of the hotside..?

 

It will get me closer but not enough. Lowering restriction and changing the wastegate will increase boost a little and hold it better but we are talking 15 rwhp or so. Which is the reason why I wanted to see if it was worth changing turbo and cams to reach it. From what I can see if I wanted ot keep some form of decent response then the only cheapest budget option is the GTX2871R on high boost or an EFR 6758, 6258 could get close but not quite enough. Short by 15 rwhp or so and that's still high boost. I'd rather not change head studs without the gasket so I'll pass on it. Even holding 18 psi in a stock gasket can be dangerous so the fact it drops to 16 PSI for me is probably a good thing for reliability.

 

Still considering a stock bottom block with a VET head for now. If I'm messing with the head, I want it to be worth my while and have the ability to rev without worrying about a rocker breaking...and the sound... :woot: .

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you know it's not boost that blows gaskets or ringlands or anything...

 

It's cylinder pressure, so running say 25psi with low timing would have less cylinder pressure say to the likes of 18psi with loads of timing.

 

Power will lift heads, just do the studs you lazy prick LOL

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^ that that that that

 

25psi through a t28 is different to 25psi through a gt3582. It's cylinder pressure that represents stress, but since we can't measure that easily, we use torque since that's about the closest relationship to cylinder pressure

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^ that that that that

 

25psi through a t28 is different to 25psi through a gt3582. It's cylinder pressure that represents stress, but since we can't measure that easily, we use torque since that's about the closest relationship to cylinder pressure

 

this man has done research and not regurgitating forum bullshit he has heard from other.

 

10/10 :)

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^ that that that that

 

25psi through a t28 is different to 25psi through a gt3582. It's cylinder pressure that represents stress, but since we can't measure that easily, we use torque since that's about the closest relationship to cylinder pressure

 

this man has done research and not regurgitating forum bullshit he has heard from other.

 

10/10 :)

 

I was just thinking about this before actually and noticed that 16 PSI on a GTX3071R (53 lbs) would flow more air than a GTX2863R (40 lbs) at higher RPMs, hence make more torque (resulting in more power).

 

My initial thought was pressure is pressure, but the volume of air will defintely vary between turbo compressors and indeed some will flow more air than others. My hypothesis (correct me if I'm wrong) is that it results with a higher volume of air to ignite, more fuel required, more volatile explosion = dead 16-17 year old OEM gasket at whatever boost pressure.

 

I'm pretty set on the VET project, so I'll change the head gasket then :P.

 

I just need about 320 rwkw for now...gearbox should hopefully last with the cushy 10" NPC orgnaic clutch. If not, Z33 box time. :D

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Just to reiterate, torque kills boxes not power. Even though you have a organic clutch or whatever you got, the box can still grenade itself when fed enough torque.

 

E.g. you gently shift into gear, ease off the clutch, gradually press the accelerator, boost comes on and you feed the box about 500nm (making up a number here), box doesn't like torque then she will go bang!

 

Of course driving like a knob and side stepping the clutch will destroy it quicker from all the shock.

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Just to reiterate, torque kills boxes not power. Even though you have a organic clutch or whatever you got, the box can still grenade itself when fed enough torque.

 

E.g. you gently shift into gear, ease off the clutch, gradually press the accelerator, boost comes on and you feed the box about 500nm (making up a number here), box doesn't like torque then she will go bang!

 

Of course driving like a knob and side stepping the clutch will destroy it quicker from all the shock.

 

Yes, when I meant power I was going by NPC's recommendation for the clutch of 320-330 rwkw, the torque should be similar for any car making that much power.

 

Torque is definitely the factor which can breaks things in the engine and drivetrain, it would be good if NPC had a recommendation for the torque rating but for some reason they don't. It must be easier for them to just go by power. I think of torque as a momentum of power (motive force), so the rate at which the power builds is rapid at a particular RPM before it drops off. The faster the momentum, the more twisting force there is...happy snapping!

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power is calculated from torque anyway so there is a relation.

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I made 321.5kw@w on a stock 15 motor with my t67 on pump with 19psi and 7000rpm cut . No mods to the head or the block at all. Ran it for 3 years and abused it like a $2 mole pulled it out to make way for the stroker. Still ran still worked still functioned. Was i just lucky? Possible, can srs cop a heap of shit? Well yes they can... Just my 2c's

Edited by Robert Symes

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GREDDY T67-25g 8cm rear flaired front pipe to 3 1/4 on 6 boost mani with 47mm GREDDY gate and was still running z32 airflow meter.

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GREDDY T67-25g 8cm rear flaired front pipe to 3 1/4 on 6 boost mani with 47mm GREDDY gate and was still running z32 airflow meter.

 

321 on 19psi on pump from slapping a turbo on a stock motor? Sounds like bs to me. Was it a sparkle top with blast pipes?

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GREDDY T67-25g 8cm rear flaired front pipe to 3 1/4 on 6 boost mani with 47mm GREDDY gate and was still running z32 airflow meter.

 

321 on 19psi on pump from slapping a turbo on a stock motor? Sounds like bs to me. Was it a sparkle top with blast pipes?

 

If enough air and fuel are going through the engine and it doesn't grenade itself. Why wouldn't it make that power?

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GREDDY T67-25g 8cm rear flaired front pipe to 3 1/4 on 6 boost mani with 47mm GREDDY gate and was still running z32 airflow meter.

 

321 on 19psi on pump from slapping a turbo on a stock motor? Sounds like bs to me. Was it a sparkle top with blast pipes?

O I'm sorry smart ass, it had, 850cc , a z32 on 4 inch intake pipe with a apexi pod, full exhaust with a front mount, sard reg, 044, 040 with a serg tank and a PFC with 4.3s in the rear.

Does that clear it up for you? Or would you like a science lesson?

Edited by TRUNYA

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And the last time I checked valve springs forged Pistons and h beams never added power and I'm pretty sure it was a speckle top not sparkle top

 

No need to get emotional. Z32/injectors/pumps don't give you more power hence the reason I didn't mention anything. Essentially you've said I slapped a big turbo on with supporting mods to make power on unleaded and made huge power without cams ect. Regardless of all your videos you have to understand that your results are freakish and very hard to believe. It's not personal, Those injectors must have been working over time.

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I thought they were vids of the stock motor..... I contacted you about buying the 2.2 yrs ago lol. Anyways to the guy who wrote the post from my personal experience throwing a big turbo on and throwing 19-20psi of unleaded at it will not net you 300wkw. Call me conservative or whatever, that's my opinion but old mates getting emotional.

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We'll grow some for skin brother. People won't believe everything I say in life. Move on from it. I would love nothing more than to see a result like that from a completely stock Sr with bolting shit on the side. But as your parents say if it sounds to good to be tru it probably is. All I wanna say is that to anyone else out there slapping a big turbo on with pump fuel on that sort of boost is extremely unlikely to make 300 or even near that unless the dyno is playing tricks on you. As for the 2.2 not making anymore power.::: I thought it would have made a great increase especially with adding cams.... Sr stock cams are shocking and throwing a decent set of cams at an Sr will get you results of up to 40whp just from a cam upgrade.

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